Category: Thailand Notebook

The elephant is the country’s symbol, and the tourism built around it is one of the murkiest in Southeast Asia. The good news: it is possible to see elephants without funding circus captivity — provided you know what you are looking at.

The test that never fails

An elephant carrying a tourist is not a free elephant. The training needed to accept a seat on its back relies on painful methods, and no amount of charm erases that. A place offering riding is therefore not a sanctuary, whatever it calls itself.

The other four signs

Check whether the animals can move freely, whether there are chains — even ‘for the night’ —, how many visitors come per day, and whether you are invited to bathe them. Forced bathing is photogenic and has become a show; many serious refuges have dropped it.

Ask what happens to older elephants, and where they come from. A refuge that buys its animals feeds the market. One that takes in elephants retired from work or tourism tells another story.

Where to see them genuinely free

The best way to see an elephant in Thailand involves no camp at all: Kui Buri national park, where wild herds are watched from fixed viewpoints at sunrise or sunset. You touch nothing, you feed nothing, and that is exactly why it is worth the journey.

Practical information

Book directly with the place, not through an intermediary taking a commission with no oversight. Allow half a day, bring water, and accept that you will not see everything: an elephant asleep behind a tree is a relaxed elephant.

Finally, beware the word ‘sanctuary’. It is not a label, it is a sales argument. ‘Reserve’ and ‘foundation’ are no better. Only facts count: no seat, no chain, no forced bath.

#Thailand #Elephants #MrSchaka

FAQ

Is any elephant riding still acceptable?

No. The training it requires rests on painful constraint, whatever the gentleness advertised.

Is feeding an elephant wrong?

It can be supervised and painless, but check that the animal comes on its own and that the food is part of its usual diet.

Where can I see wild elephants?

In national parks such as Kui Buri, with proper observation points. The distance is part of the experience.

Also read

• Khao Yai national park
• What to do in Bangkok when it rains

In Bangkok the question is not which hotel but which neighbourhood. The city is vast, the traffic is real, and two hotels at the same price can cost you an hour of travel a day depending on the side you pick. Here are five areas, with what each one demands.

Sukhumvit: the most practical

The skytrain line runs through the whole district and hotels line the sois. Restaurants, supermarkets and pharmacies are all there, at any hour. It is the simplest choice for a first trip: you depend on nobody to get home at night. The downside: it is noisy, very dense, and you can stay there without ever seeing a temple.

Silom and Sathorn: useful calm

A business district on weekdays, livelier in the evening. Lumpini park is next door, the skytrain and metro meet at Sala Daeng, and the river is a few stops away. A good compromise if you want to sleep without Sukhumvit’s racket.

The old town: atmosphere, without the metro

Rattanakosin, around the Royal Palace and Khao San, offers the best prices and the highest density of things to see on foot. But there is no metro station: you walk, take a boat or a taxi. For two or three nights it is wonderful; for a week it weighs on you.

The riverside: comfort

Hotels on the Chao Phraya run free river shuttles and offer views that justify the price. You reach the temples by boat rather than by road, which changes everything. Book it if the budget allows: it is the most pleasant area for a short stay.

Siam and Chit Lom: the exact centre

Two stations, a dozen shopping centres, skywalks that let you walk in the shade. Useful with children or in the rain. In exchange, you live inside a giant mall and prices go up.

#Thailand #Bangkok #MrSchaka

Practical information

Never book blind: check the real distance to a station, not the advertised one. A hotel ‘near the BTS’ can be a fifteen-minute walk. Also bear in mind that the old town and the riverside connect poorly by public transport. Finally, the rainy season does not change which area you pick, but it makes the skywalks and the skytrain far more comfortable than the street.

FAQ

Which area for a first three-day trip?

Sukhumvit or Siam: you lose less time travelling and can do everything on foot or by skytrain.

Is the old town really poorly connected?

There is no metro station, but the boat reaches several points. Expect more walking.

Should I stay near the airport?

Only for a very early flight. Otherwise you pay for a night far from everything you came to see.

Also read

• The canals and the Chao Phraya
• What to do in Bangkok when it rains

Three days in Bangkok is short, and it is almost always badly organised in the same way: you plan to ‘see the temples’ then ‘see the markets’, ignoring that the city is vast, that heat crushes the afternoon and that two sites three kilometres apart can take forty minutes of travel. The good plan is not to do more, but to do things in the right order.

Before you leave: three decisions

The first is the area. For three days, aim for a hotel less than ten minutes on foot from a skytrain station, ideally between Siam and Asok: you will be at the centre of the network and can reach almost everything without depending on a taxi. The second is arrival time: a flight landing at midday costs you the best part of the day. If you can choose, arrive the evening before. The third is pace: two major sites a day, not three.

Day 1: the river and the old town

The first day happens on the water and in old Bangkok. Leave early, around seven, for the flower market by the river: between four and seven the deliveries arrive and bouquets are made; by eight the essential is done. From there, reach the Royal Palace on foot or by river taxi. Arrive at opening: tour coaches land mid-morning, and an hour’s head start changes the visit entirely.

Allow two hours for the Palace, then walk ten minutes to Wat Pho, which completes the route without duplicating it. Lunch in the area, in the shade, then return by river: the express boat costs a bus ticket and the journey itself is worth it. Late afternoon at Wat Arun, on the west bank, as the light falls on the prangs. In the evening, dine in Chinatown, ten minutes away: the stalls set up at dusk and it is the best value in town.

Day 2: modern Bangkok

Second day, change era. In the morning, head for Benjakitti park for an hour’s walk around the lake, before the heat settles. Then reach Siam by metro or skytrain and spend the afternoon between the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, which is free, and the big malls, which mostly serve as air-conditioned shelter when the temperature climbs.

Late afternoon, choose a viewpoint: the Golden Mount for a 360-degree view of the old town, or a rooftop bar if you accept the price of a cocktail. In the evening, go up to Sukhumvit for dinner, or stay around the Carré district if you want to see the city celebrate. Avoid planning a third site after 6 pm: evening journeys are the longest.

Day 3: leave the centre

For the third day, you must choose. The first option is a trip out of town: Ayutthaya, the former capital, reachable by train or minibus, fills a whole day and is visited by bicycle. The second is a slower Bangkok: the canals of Thonburi, Bang Krachao and its cycling paths, or the secondary temples the coaches ignore. The third, if you are tired, is to plan nothing and follow a market, a café, a street.

Whatever you choose, keep the evening free: it is the moment to return where you liked, rather than chasing one last site.

Getting around without wasting time

Rail first, for distance. Water next, for the old town and the temples: river boats are often faster than the road at busy times. Motorbike taxi for the last metres, in streets no car can enter. And a taxi only when nothing else works. Avoid tuk-tuks for long distances: expensive per kilometre and made for tourist circuits.

#Thailand #Bangkok #MrSchaka

What to budget

Over three days, excluding accommodation, count roughly fifteen to twenty-five euros a day: transport, major site entries, street meals and one or two sit-down meals. Accommodation remains the main cost, between twenty and sixty euros a night depending on the area. Bring cash for markets and small shops.

Mistakes that cost half a day

Wanting to see everything on day one. Visiting temples between noon and three, when the ground burns. Taking a taxi at 6 pm to cross the city. Booking a hotel ‘near the BTS’ without checking the real distance. And letting yourself be stopped by someone claiming the site is closed today: it is a classic technique.

FAQ

Are three days enough for Bangkok?

For the major sites and one district, yes. To take your time, allow a week.

Should I book visits in advance?

For the Royal Palace, no: entry is on site. For an Ayutthaya trip, yes if you go by minibus.

Can you do everything on foot?

No. The historic centre is walkable, but Bangkok is too big for that alone.

Best time of year?

November to February: dry air, clear skies, bearable temperatures.

Is it suitable with children?

Yes, by reducing to one major site a day and keeping afternoons in the shade.

Also read

• Where to stay in Bangkok for a first trip
• How to visit the Grand Palace

Taking the bus in Thailand is the simplest and cheapest way to cross the country, from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Isan or the piers for the islands. Here is how to choose the right terminal and the right company, and how to combine bus and ferry without any nasty surprises.

Bangkok’s three main bus terminals

Bangkok does not have one bus terminal but three, each facing a different part of the country. Going to the wrong one means losing an hour or two in traffic, so always check where your bus leaves from before you book.

Mo Chit (Northern and Northeastern terminal)

Mo Chit, often called Mo Chit 2, is on Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road, near Chatuchak Market. It is the largest terminal in the country: buses leave from here for Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and all of Isan (Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani, Nong Khai), as well as a few routes to the east such as Pattaya or Aranyaprathet. It is not directly on a metro line: from MRT Kamphaeng Phet or BTS Mo Chit, you finish the journey by taxi, motorbike taxi or city bus. Ticket counters are grouped by region, sometimes on different floors; the information desk will point you in the right direction. Avoid taxis that refuse to use the meter.

Ekkamai (Eastern terminal)

Ekkamai is the easiest to reach: it is on Sukhumvit Road, a two-minute walk from BTS Ekkamai. It serves the east coast: Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe (for Koh Samet), Chanthaburi and Trat (for Koh Chang). For Pattaya, expect roughly 130 to 200 baht depending on the company.

Sai Tai Mai (Southern terminal)

The Southern terminal, known as Sai Tai Mai or Sai Tai Taling Chan, is on Borommaratchachonnani Road, on the Thonburi side, in Taling Chan district. It serves the south and the west: Kanchanaburi, Hua Hin, Chumphon, Surat Thani, Phuket, Krabi, Trang, Hat Yai. It is far from any rail line: the easiest option is a metered taxi, around 100 to 150 baht from the Khao San area, more from Sukhumvit. Ticket counters are on the first floor.

To reach these terminals, my article on getting around Bangkok (BTS, MRT, boat) will help you pick the most convenient line. Note that since 2025 the Ministry of Transport has been studying a plan to bring the bus terminals together around Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. Nothing has been decided so far, but check before you travel.

Public company, private operators, VIP: which to choose?

The public company is called Transport Co., Ltd., in Thai บขส., pronounced “Bor Kor Sor”. It runs many routes alongside licensed private operators such as Nakhonchai Air or Sombat Tour, which also leave from the official terminals with numbered-seat tickets.

Classes vary a little between companies, but broadly:

• Standard or 2nd-class bus: air-conditioned, ordinary seats, frequent stops. The cheapest.
• 1st class: more comfortable, fewer stops, often a toilet on board.
• VIP (24 to 32 seats): large reclining seats, three seats per row, a blanket, a small snack or a bottle of water.

For Bangkok to Chiang Mai, for example, allow about 9 to 11 hours on the road and, as a rough guide, 500 to 1,100 baht depending on class and company. For night journeys, VIP is really worth the difference: you sleep better and arrive in better shape.

Minivans: fast, but use them sensibly

Minivans with around fifteen seats were long the fastest way to cover journeys of two to four hours. Since 2016 they no longer leave from the Victory Monument roundabout but from the bus terminals, and the authorities are gradually replacing them with safer minibuses on many routes. They are still common for medium trips (Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, Rayong, Hua Hin). Their drawbacks: little room for luggage and sometimes jumpy driving. For long distances, I prefer a full-size bus.

#Thailand #Bangkok #ThailandTravel #TravelTips #Asia #MrSchaka

Bus and ferry: reaching the islands on one ticket

For many islands there are combined bus and boat tickets, very handy when you do not want to manage the connections yourself. If you are still unsure about your destination, read which island to choose in Thailand.

• Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, Koh Samui (Gulf of Thailand): Lomprayah runs day and night buses from the Khao San area, with a transfer to its catamaran at Chumphon. For Koh Tao, expect roughly 850 to 1,550 baht depending on the boat (slow or fast) and the bus class. Other combined tickets go via Surat Thani and Donsak pier, with Seatran or Raja Ferry boats to Samui.
• Koh Samet: bus from Ekkamai to Ban Phe, then a boat. I have described the journey in detail in Koh Samet from Bangkok.
• Koh Chang: bus or minivan to Trat, then a ferry from the Laem Ngop area. Combined tickets are available from Ekkamai.
• Phuket, Krabi, Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi: night bus from the Southern terminal, then a boat or a minivan depending on the island.

A comfortable alternative for the Gulf: the night train to Chumphon or Surat Thani, followed by the boat. Keep an eye on the weather too: from October to December the sea can be rough in the Gulf and boats can be suspended for a day or two.

Booking your ticket

Three options:

• At the terminal counter: the traditional way. On most routes you can find a seat on the day, except during holidays.
• On the official Transport Co. website (transport.co.th) and through its approved resellers, including some 7-Eleven counters: useful for securing a VIP seat several days ahead.
• On a platform such as 12Go: English interface, card payment, very practical for bus and ferry combinations. Double-check the departure terminal shown.

During Songkran (mid-April), New Year and long weekends, Thais travel home to their provinces in huge numbers: book several days ahead. Keep your passport with you, as it may be requested when you buy a ticket.

Safety: the right reflexes

The major companies are generally reliable, but the roads remain the country’s weak point, among the deadliest in Asia for accidents. A few reflexes:

• Choose buses leaving from the official terminals rather than the very cheap “tourist buses” sold by street agencies, especially around Khao San: thefts from the luggage hold have often been reported on them.
• Keep your passport, cash, phone and bank card in a small bag on you, never in the hold.
• Fasten your seat belt when there is one, especially at night.

My practical tips

• Check the departure terminal first: Mo Chit for the north and Isan, Ekkamai for the east, Sai Tai Mai for the south.
• Arrive at least 30 minutes before departure: finding the right platform takes time at Mo Chit.
• Bring a jumper or a light jacket: the air conditioning is often turned up very high.
• To follow your route and let your accommodation know when you will arrive, a local SIM card helps a lot.
• Keep some cash in small notes for the stops and the taxi on arrival.
• In the rainy season, leave a margin if you have a boat or a flight to catch afterwards.

Frequently asked questions

Is the bus better than the train in Thailand?

The bus is often faster and serves many more towns. The night train is more comfortable for sleeping.

Should I book my bus in advance?

Normally, buying your ticket the day before or on the day at the counter is enough. During Songkran, New Year and long weekends, book several days ahead, especially for VIP seats.

Are combined bus and ferry tickets reliable?

Yes, when they are sold by the boat company itself or by a recognised platform. Just leave a margin in case of rough seas.

Can I travel by bus with large luggage?

Yes, full-size buses have a luggage hold. Minivans, on the other hand, have very little room: with a large suitcase, choose a bus or a minibus.

In Nan’s old town, Wat Phumin is known for its four-entrance building and murals. TAT describes Buddhist stories and scenes of earlier everyday life, including the famous image of a couple whispering.

Widen your view

Look across the whole wall before seeking the familiar image. Then choose an item of clothing, a gesture and a relationship between two figures. Describe these in your notebook; if you do not know the story, write a question rather than a certainty.

Protect the place

• Follow clothing requirements and respect prayer areas.
• Check photography rules before taking out your camera.
• Keep hands and belongings away from painted surfaces.

FAQ

#Thailand #Travel #MrSchaka

Can we know the couple’s actual words?

The image provides no transcript. Any imagined sentence should be clearly presented as your own creation.

Is a guide useful?

A local guide can explain scenes. Ask whether information comes from a documented source, oral tradition or interpretation.

Sources and further reading

• TAT — Thailand Green Tourism, Wat Phumin

Wat Yai Suwannaram in Phetchaburi preserves elements from the Ayutthaya period. TAT highlights its teak preaching hall, carved doors and murals. These features provide a useful starting point for a focused visit.

Look at two materials

Begin with wood: find a repeating motif and see how it frames an opening. If the painted space is accessible, choose one mural detail next. Separate observation from interpretation; ask locally rather than inventing a story.

Prepare to enter

• Wear clothing covering shoulders and knees.
• Follow instructions about shoes and photographs.
• Do not touch paintings or old architectural features.

FAQ

#Thailand #Travel #MrSchaka

Is the interior always accessible?

Ceremonies or works can change access. Check on site without interrupting worship.

Should several temples be combined?

One place explored calmly may be enough. Leave room for a break and adapt the rest of the day to your energy.

Sources and further reading

• TAT — Phetchaburi, section Other ancient temples

Chanthaburi’s Chanthaboon waterfront district follows the river along Sukhaphiban Road. Thailand’s CEA highlights its Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and Western influences, alongside the preservation of old houses.

Choose something to notice

Instead of collecting addresses, look for three details: a carved wooden opening, a restored frontage and a shop still trading. Record what you see; ask before assigning a building an age or former use.

Keep the walk flexible

• Mark a return point on your map before setting off.
• Leave time for a break and a conversation when welcomed.
• Ask before photographing residents or interiors.

FAQ

#Thailand #Travel #MrSchaka

Can every house be visited?

No. People still live here; an open door is not an invitation.

Is there a particular day to visit?

Shops set their own hours. Confirm an essential stop before travelling; an outdoor walk does not guarantee that a business will be open.

Sources and further reading

• CEA — ชุมชนริมน้ำจันทบูร
• TAT — Chanthaburi river and waterfront

In Bangkok, between Chinatown and the river, Talat Noi — ‘the small market’ — fits into a handful of lanes where engines are still repaired a few steps from murals several storeys high. It is one of the oldest quarters in the city.

Two centuries of Sino-Thai trade

Chinese merchants from the Teochew community settled here more than two hundred years ago, close to the Chao Phraya, then the main artery of trade. Wooden houses, family shrines, shophouses: the past is still legible on the facades, and trades pass from one generation to the next.

What you see there

Around Soi Wanit 2, scrap workshops pile up engines and metal parts. This is not a stage set: the quarter works from dawn, and mechanical students still come here to learn.

Since the Buk Ruk festival in 2016, the walls of Charoenkrung Soi 32 have filled with paintings, making Talat Noi one of Bangkok’s street art landmarks. Further on, the So Heng Tai mansion, a Hokkien house more than two centuries old, opens its inner courtyard around a café. Holy Rosary Church, neo-gothic, recalls that the city was built from many influences.

Getting there

By metro, Hua Lamphong station on the blue line, then about ten minutes on foot southwards. By boat, the Marine Department stop on the Chao Phraya Express is the most pleasant way in, arriving through the murals and the river.

The best time is early morning on a weekday, when the workshops open and the lanes are still cool.

#Thailand #Bangkok #MrSchaka

FAQ

How long should I allow?

Two to three hours for the main lanes, a whole morning if you stop in the cafés and courtyards.

Is it suitable for children?

Yes, provided you accept walking without a fixed route: no golden temple and no staged attraction, but workshops, painted walls and cats.

Sources and further reading

• Ideal Voyages — Talat Noi, 24/04/2026

In Bangkok, rain is not an event, it is an appointment. From May to October, showers usually arrive late in the afternoon, violent for thirty to sixty minutes, then stop and leave the city gleaming. The right question is not how to avoid it, but where to be when it comes.

1. The big malls, official monsoon shelters

Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, ICONSIAM: these air-conditioned liners connect directly to the BTS and the metro, so you need not walk a single metre in the rain. Inside you find restaurants for every budget, cinemas, bookshops and free exhibitions. ICONSIAM, set on the river, can fill half a day on its own.

2. Museums, when you want more than shopping

The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, opposite Siam, hosts free contemporary exhibitions. Museum Siam, in a neoclassical building, tells the country’s history in a way no textbook does. Jim Thompson’s house, built of teak and silk, can be visited under cover, and the National Museum, near the Palace, remains one of the city’s best rainy-day options.

3. Temples in the downpour

Counter-intuitive but true: a temple in the rain is often more beautiful than in sunshine. Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the courtyards of the Royal Palace empty out, the stone turns dark, the smell of incense rises. Bring a poncho rather than an umbrella — gusts turn them inside out — and mind the marble floors, slippery as an ice rink.

4. Food, under a roof

A Thai cooking class fills half a day and ends with a meal you made yourself. Another option: covered markets such as Or Tor Kor, where you eat on the spot between showers. For dinner, the shophouses of Yaowarat and Talat Noi offer arcades that let you walk almost dry.

5. Get a proper massage

An hour of Thai massage, in a serious establishment, is the best remedy for a sodden day. Avoid the touts of Khao San and look for houses in residential streets, where people work without loud music.

#Thailand #Bangkok #MrSchaka

6. And if the rain settles in?

Siam’s cinemas screen films in original version with subtitles. Sukhumvit’s bookshops let you read in peace. And the old town’s cafés exist for exactly this: a table, an iced Thai tea, rain on the pavement.

Practical information

The rainy season runs roughly from May to October, peaking in August and September. Showers are brief but intense: better to go out early, come back in the early afternoon, and leave a margin before a flight or a train. A weather-radar app and a waterproof pouch for your phone are worth more than a street umbrella, which will not survive the first gust.

FAQ

Does the rainy season ruin a trip?

No, provided you move outdoor visits to the morning. Most travellers lose an hour or two a day, no more.

Can you visit temples in the rain?

Yes, and they are often quieter. Bring a poncho, shoes that dry and something to cover your shoulders.

Which area keeps you dry?

The Siam–Chit Lom area, linked to the BTS by skywalks, lets you move around almost entirely under cover.

Sources and further reading

• Time Out — Things to do in Bangkok in the rainy season
• Mr Schaka — The rainy season in Thailand