Category: The Season of Breath: articles

There are times when we move forward as planned. And then there are times when life forces us to change pace, rethink our priorities and accept that not everything can be done the way it was before.

For me, writing has become much more than a creative activity. It is a way to give shape to ideas, to build worlds and to keep room for projects, even when everyday life becomes harder.

One page at a time

We sometimes picture the writer sitting at the computer, inspired, able to fill page after page for hours. The reality is often simpler: you have to search for an idea, start a sentence again, leave a chapter to rest and come back to it later.

Learning to respect your own pace matters. A productive day does not always look like the one before. And moving slowly does not necessarily mean not moving at all.

Why tell stories?

I love stories because they let us explore lives, places and questions we would not necessarily come across in our daily lives. A crime novel invites us to notice the details. A travel story pushes us to see things differently. A personal account can open a conversation we would not have dared to start.

My worlds are different, from Liège to Bangkok, from the investigations of Le Carnet d’Oscar to more personal stories. Yet they have one thing in common: the wish to tell a story and share something with the reader.

Creating without waiting for the perfect moment

We sometimes wait until we have more time, more energy or ideal conditions before starting a project. But the perfect moment does not always come. Sometimes it is more useful to take a small step, even an imperfect one, than to keep putting off what matters to us.

Writing a few lines, jotting down an idea or rereading a passage can be enough to keep a project alive. It does not solve every problem, but it lets you keep a space of your own.

And you, what helps you keep going?

I am sharing this reflection because we all go through periods of doubt, change or slowing down. We do not all live them in the same way, but it can help to talk about what keeps us moving forward.

For my part, books remain a way to explore the world and to keep my love of stories. You can discover my novels, my stories and my other projects on mrschaka.com.

And you, do you have a passion or an activity that helps you get through harder times?

Find me on Facebook too and share your thoughts!

There are moments in life when you realise that nothing is ever guaranteed. Health, plans, travel and the simplest everyday gestures can suddenly take on a different meaning. That is how Je respire encore was born.

I am Mr Schaka, a Belgian author living between Liège and Bangkok. I write to tell stories, share experiences and put into words what life sometimes forces upon us.

When life changes without asking permission

Illness disrupts habits, forces you to rethink your plans and sometimes asks you to accept that some days no longer look like the ones you had imagined. There are kinds of tiredness that are hard to explain, and things you give up without really choosing to.

But one question remains: what do you do with what is still possible? I have no miracle recipe. Instead, I believe in the small things that keep their value: a page written, a conversation that does you good, a project you finish or a day you get through at your own pace.

Why I wrote Je respire encore

Writing this book was a way of giving a place to a personal experience and letting it exist beyond me. Behind the medical words there is a person, a story, emotions and a unique way of carrying on living.

This memoir does not claim to tell others how to live with their illness. Every journey is different, and willpower alone is not enough to overcome everything. Instead, I wanted to share a human experience, with its difficulties, its questions and its moments of searching for balance.

Carrying on creating, even differently

Writing lets me explore different worlds, from crime fiction set in Liège to Thai landscapes and personal stories. Creating does not make the difficulties disappear, but it can offer a space of freedom and a chance to build something.

Sometimes you have to adjust your pace, accept less productive days and let go of the idea that you must do everything as before. A single page can be a victory. An idea saved for later can remain a project waiting for its moment. A break is not necessarily giving up.

Between Liège and Bangkok, keeping a love of stories

Liège has its atmospheres, its streets and its secrets, a setting well suited to detective stories. Thailand offers other material: contrasts, encounters, journeys and discoveries. These worlds reflect the same desire: to tell, to observe and to share.

I do not want to lock my work into a single category. A crime novel can make you think, a travel story can become an inner exploration, and a personal account can open a conversation.

What I would like to pass on to readers

I do not claim to have all the answers. I prefer to share stories and experiences. Life is not just the obstacles we face: we remain people with tastes, wishes, plans and things to pass on.

Carrying on does not necessarily mean going faster. Sometimes carrying on means slowing down, changing your priorities, asking for help or finding pleasure again in things you no longer noticed.

Discover Je respire encore

I wrote this memoir to share part of my journey and open a door onto my personal world. If these pages help one reader feel less alone, or help a loved one better understand what someone who is ill is going through, then they will already have served their purpose.

Discover Je respire encore and the other books presented on mrschaka.com.

Spending winter in Thailand over 50 means swapping Belgian or French grey skies for blue ones for one to three months. You still need the right region, the right visa and the right flat. Here is what I have learned between Liège and Bangkok.

Which region for which months

From November to February, most regions enjoy their driest season. From March, the heat climbs sharply until May.

Hua Hin, the quiet choice

About three hours by road from Bangkok, Hua Hin is calm, flat and well equipped: private hospitals, supermarkets, a long beach. Ideal for a first long stay.

Pattaya and Jomtien, everything close at hand

Pattaya is lively, but Jomtien and Pratumnak move at a gentler pace. You will find everything there, about two hours from Bangkok.

Chiang Mai, lovely but not at the end of winter

Cool mornings in December and January, temples, low prices. But from February to April, agricultural burning and forest fires push up fine-particle pollution (PM2.5), often peaking in March. Sensitive airways? Aim for December and January.

Koh Samui, on its own calendar

In the Gulf of Thailand, rain falls mostly from late October to mid-December, with November often the wettest month. Go from January to April instead.

Visas and length of stay: what changed in 2026

Since 15 September 2026, visa-free entry for Belgian and French tourists has dropped from 60 to 30 days. A 30-day extension can be requested in Thailand, at an immigration office, for 1,900 THB, at the officer’s discretion.

• One month: the 30-day exemption is enough.
• Two months: exemption plus extension (not guaranteed), or a tourist visa.
• Three months: the tourist visa (TR), applied for online before departure, gives 60 days, extendable once by 30 days in Thailand. Around 40 euros, depending on the embassy.
• Longer: the Non-Immigrant O-A visa, for people aged 50 and over, allows one year, subject to financial conditions (for example 800,000 THB in a Thai bank account or a monthly income of 65,000 THB) and health insurance. The O-X, over five years, is open to French but not Belgian nationals.

These rules change quickly: check with the Thai embassy in Brussels or Paris before booking, and fill in the digital arrival card (TDAC) online before you land. Full details in my article on Thailand visa requirements in 2026.

Renting by the month: condos and rough prices

For one to three months, rent a condo by the month instead: a furnished studio or one-bedroom flat, often with a pool.

• Chiang Mai: about 8,000 to 15,000 THB for a studio, 12,000 to 22,000 THB for a separate bedroom.
• Hua Hin: about 10,000 to 18,000 THB for a one-bedroom in the centre, more towards Khao Takiab.
• Jomtien: about 8,000 to 20,000 THB for a one-bedroom, depending on the building and the distance to the beach.

These prices (checked in 2026) apply to long contracts. For one or two months in high season, from November to February, expect to pay around 30% more. Electricity is billed separately and a deposit is almost always required.

#TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

What monthly budget to plan

At roughly 37 baht to the euro (October 2026), here is a ballpark figure for a couple living simply, excluding flights and insurance:

• Accommodation: 15,000 to 25,000 THB.
• Food, mostly local cooking: 12,000 to 18,000 THB.
• Electricity, water, internet: 2,000 to 4,000 THB.
• Transport, outings, unexpected costs: 6,000 to 10,000 THB.

Total: about 35,000 to 57,000 THB, or 950 to 1,550 euros a month.

Health, insurance and pace of life

I am not a doctor. Talk about your plans with your GP a few weeks before leaving. Take your prescriptions, with the generic names of the medicines, and enough medication for the whole stay.

Ask your health fund or national health insurer how long it covers you abroad, and check the maximum trip length of your travel insurance. For three months, long-stay insurance covering hospital care and repatriation is essential: Thai private hospitals are expensive.

As for the heat: go out in the morning and late afternoon, stay somewhere cool at midday, drink often. Life slows down, and that is the whole point.

Staying in touch and planning the return

Three months is a long time for the family. With a Thai eSIM, video calls cost next to nothing. Set a weekly call with the grandchildren. Time difference: six hours ahead of Belgium and France in winter, five after the clocks change at the end of March.

To head home, aim for March or early April: the real heat arrives in Thailand, spring arrives back home. Book your flight early, especially around Songkran in mid-April.

Mr Schaka’s practical tips

• Book the first month from home, then choose the next one on the spot.
• Never go past the date on your entry stamp: the fine is at least 500 THB a day.
• As soon as you arrive, locate the nearest private hospital and pharmacy.
• For the basics, read my guide to travelling in Thailand over 50.

Frequently asked questions

Can I stay three months in Thailand without a visa?

No, not since 15 September 2026: 30 days, extendable once by 30 days. For 90 days, get a tourist visa.

Which region for a first winter?

Hua Hin or Jomtien. Chiang Mai is lovely in December and January, less advisable from February to April because of the smoke.

What budget for a month there?

For a couple living simply, about 35,000 to 57,000 THB, accommodation included, excluding flights and insurance.

Between December and April, PM2.5 in Thailand can spoil part of a trip, especially in the north. With a little planning, though, you stay in control. Here is when, where and how to handle it, with the tools I use myself between Bangkok and the rest of the country.

The smoke season: mostly in the north

PM2.5 are very fine particles, less than 2.5 micrometres across. In Thailand, levels rise during the dry season, roughly from December to April, sometimes into May.

The north is hit hardest. Around Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Mae Hong Son, farm fires and forest fires multiply from February. According to NASA’s Earth Observatory, fire activity usually peaks in March, and April often stays very hazy. Biomass burning is estimated to cause about 70% of fine particles in Chiang Mai in April.

The landscape does not help: the mountains around the valleys block the air and trap the haze. Things usually improve in May, when the rains return. In the north, the tricky period therefore runs from February to April, often peaking in March.

Bangkok in the dry season

Bangkok has no forest fires, but the capital has its own problems. According to Thailand’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment, the worst period there runs from December to March. Traffic, industry and crop burning in nearby provinces all add up.

The weather plays a part too. In the dry season, a temperature inversion acts like a lid and keeps the dust close to the ground. January and February are often the months when the standard is exceeded most.

The irony is that this is also the most pleasant season for temperatures. I cover the seasons in my article on the best time to visit Bangkok.

Reading the AQI without getting it wrong

The AQI (Air Quality Index) is a unitless index calculated from several pollutants. Be careful: two scales are in use, and the same number does not mean the same thing on each.

The US scale (IQAir)

Most international apps show the US AQI: 0 to 50 “good”, 51 to 100 “moderate”, 101 to 150 “unhealthy for sensitive groups”, 151 to 200 “unhealthy”, 201 to 300 “very unhealthy”, above 300 “hazardous”.

The Thai scale (Air4Thai)

The Pollution Control Department (PCD) uses its own five-colour scale: blue, green, yellow, orange and red. Since 1 June 2023, warnings start at 37.5 µg/m³ of PM2.5 averaged over 24 hours, and red begins at 75.1 µg/m³. For reference, the WHO recommends not exceeding 15 µg/m³ over 24 hours. My habit: look straight at the PM2.5 figure in µg/m³, which tells you more than the index.

#TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

Apps to track air quality

Air4Thai is the PCD’s free official app, on iPhone and Android. The number shown inside the little face is the 24-hour PM2.5 average for the nearest station, updated every hour.

IQAir AirVisual is the other app I keep on my phone. It shows the US AQI, a map and forecasts for a few days ahead, handy for comparing cities before booking a bus or a domestic flight.

Do not compare figures from one app to another without checking which scale they use. Look at the trend over the day instead. In Bangkok, readings often rise in the evening and drop a little by early morning.

Where to breathe easier: the south and the islands

During the northern smoke season, the south is generally much less affected. There is less crop burning and the sea breeze helps disperse the particles. Phuket, Krabi, Koh Lanta, Koh Phangan and Koh Lipe are good options from February to April.

It is not an absolute guarantee. The south can receive smoke from fires in Indonesia, usually later in the year: in October 2015, several southern provinces had a severe haze episode blown in from Sumatra. A quick look at the apps before booking is still worthwhile.

Mr Schaka’s practical tips

• Pick your dates: for the north, aim for November to January, before most of the fires. For Bangkok, keep some flexibility in January and February.
• Flip your route: from February to April, give the southern islands pride of place and save the north for another season.
• Check the AQI every morning: two minutes on Air4Thai or IQAir before planning the day.
• Have an indoor plan B: museums, air-conditioned shopping centres, cooking classes, a massage. In Bangkok, the BTS and MRT spare you long walks along busy roads; see my guide to getting around Bangkok.
• N95 or FFP2 masks: you can find them everywhere, in 7-Eleven shops and pharmacies. A cloth mask does not filter fine particles. Choose one that fits your face snugly.
• Go out early: temples, markets and walks are better when the air is at its cleanest.
• Accommodation: keep windows shut and use the air conditioning; some hotels lend air purifiers, so ask when you book.
• Fragile breathing: ask your doctor for advice before you travel.

Frequently asked questions

When is pollution worst in Chiang Mai?

Usually from February to April, often peaking in March. The air generally improves in May, when the rains return.

Which official app should I use in Thailand?

Air4Thai, the free app from the Pollution Control Department. IQAir AirVisual complements it well for forecasts and the US scale.

Where can I buy an N95 or FFP2 mask?

In most 7-Eleven shops and pharmacies. Bring several: a mask is not meant to be worn several days in a row.

Twelve hours in a pressurised tube doesn’t worry anyone at 30. A long-haul flight over 50, or when you get short of breath easily, needs a bit of planning. Here is how I organise the trip between Brussels and Bangkok so I arrive tired, but not broken.

Direct flight or stopover: the real maths

From Brussels, Thai Airways has flown a daily direct service to Bangkok since December 2024. Allow about 11 hours in the air on the way out. It leaves in the early afternoon and lands early the next morning, Thai time. From Paris, Frankfurt or Amsterdam there are also direct flights of a similar length.

A stopover (Doha, Dubai, Istanbul and so on) is often cheaper, but the total journey easily climbs to 15 hours or more. A stopover does have one advantage: it breaks the trip in two and lets you walk. My advice: if your budget allows, a direct flight means fewer connections, fewer long corridors and less stress. If you do take a stopover, choose at least two hours to connect so you never have to rush.

Choosing your seat: it matters more than the menu

On an eleven-hour flight, your seat makes all the difference. Book it when you buy your ticket, even if it costs a few euros more. Here is what I look for:

• The aisle: you can get up whenever you like without climbing over anyone. It is my first choice.
• Near the toilets, but not right next to them: handy for moving around, without constant traffic in front of your knees.
• The emergency exit row: more legroom, but it is usually refused to passengers who request assistance. Check with the airline.
• Premium economy: on this route it is often the best value for tired backs and knees.

Reduced mobility assistance: free, request it 48 hours ahead

Many travellers don’t know this: assistance for people with reduced mobility is a right in Europe, and it is free. EU Regulation 1107/2006 covers departures from an EU airport. You don’t need to use a wheelchair: walking with difficulty, getting breathless quickly or being fragile after an operation is enough to ask for it.

The rule: tell the airline or your travel agent at least 48 hours before departure. Do it when you book, it is safer. Someone will meet you at the desk, take you through the checks and all the way to the plane. Also ask for assistance on arrival in Bangkok and for the return flight: the airline arranges it.

On board: move, drink, breathe

Sitting still for hours is the main enemy. Get up regularly and walk down the aisle when the seatbelt sign is off. In your seat, circle your ankles and point and flex your feet. It sounds silly, but it gets the circulation going.

Cabin air is very dry. Drink water often, in small amounts, and ask the crew for a bottle. Go easy on coffee. As for alcohol, I skip it: it dehydrates you and disturbs your sleep.

For anything health-related, see your doctor a few weeks before you leave: risk of deep vein thrombosis, compression stockings, medication during the flight, possible need for oxygen. Only your doctor can advise you on your own situation. If you need oxygen, airlines often ask for a medical form in advance, so check early. Keep your medicines and prescriptions in your hand luggage.

#TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

Jet lag and arriving at Suvarnabhumi

Bangkok runs on UTC+7. That is 6 hours ahead of Belgium in winter and 5 hours in summer. On the direct flight you land early in the morning. My trick: stay awake until the evening, get out in daylight, take a short nap if needed and eat dinner at local time. Allow a few days to settle in properly.

Suvarnabhumi is a huge airport, with long walks to immigration. If you have booked assistance, an agent will wait for you at the aircraft door with a wheelchair. Passengers using an airline wheelchair can use the Fast Track lane with one companion. Before you leave, fill in the free TDAC digital arrival card online, within 3 days before arrival. For what comes next, see my guide to getting from the airport to the city centre.

Mr Schaka’s practical tips

• Book your aisle seat when you buy your ticket.
• Request reduced mobility assistance when booking, at the latest 48 hours before departure, for both flights.
• Take a small empty bottle to fill up after security.
• Wear loose clothes, shoes that are easy to slip off and a jumper: the cabin is cool.
• Set your watch to Bangkok time as soon as you board.
• Plan nothing important on arrival day. A shower, a walk, a good meal: that’s it.
• For the rest of your stay, read my article on travelling in Thailand over 50.

Frequently asked questions

Is airport assistance really free?

Yes. In the European Union, assistance for people with reduced mobility is free. You just need to request it from the airline at least 48 hours before departure.

How long is a flight from Brussels to Bangkok?

About 11 hours on a direct flight. With a stopover, the journey often takes 15 hours or more, depending on the connection.

Should I see my doctor before a long-haul flight?

It is a good idea if you have a breathing, heart or circulation problem, or take regular medication. Your doctor will tell you what suits your case, especially regarding oxygen or preventing blood clots.

Thailand travel over 50 is entirely possible, and often more enjoyable than at 25: you take your time and choose better. The secret comes down to three things: pace, comfort and good preparation. Here is what really works on the ground.

Choose your season: the heat decides everything

According to the Thai government’s official portal, the country has three seasons. The hot season runs from mid-February to mid-May, with highs often between 35 and 39°C, sometimes above 40°C around mid-April. The rainy season lasts from mid-May to mid-October. The cool season, from mid-October to mid-February, is the gentlest on the body.

If you struggle with heat, aim for November to January. Evenings are more pleasant, especially in the north. For a month-by-month breakdown, read our article on the best time to visit Bangkok.

Pace your days

Do as the Thais do. Go out early, between 7am and 11am: markets, temples, walks. Between noon and 4pm, head back somewhere cool for a nap or some time by the pool. Go out again around 5pm, when the light softens: night markets, the riverside, dinner outdoors. One big visit a day is enough.

Comfortable destinations

There is no need to rush around the whole country. Four places are ideal for a relaxed trip.

• Bangkok: get around by BTS, the air-conditioned Skytrain, rather than walking in full sun. It is all explained in our guide to getting around Bangkok.
• Hua Hin: a quiet seaside town about 200 km south-west of Bangkok, or 3 to 3.5 hours by road. Beach, walks and a family atmosphere.
• Chiang Mai: a manageable northern city, cooler in the dry season, full of temples and cafés. About 1 hour 10 minutes by air from Bangkok.
• Koh Samui: a well-equipped island with its own airport. About 1 to 1.5 hours by air from Bangkok, with no bus-and-ferry marathon.

Two or three stops in three weeks is a good pace. Every change of hotel costs half a day of energy.

Travel and sleep without wearing yourself out

Transport

For long distances, domestic flights are the most restful option: flights often last little more than an hour. The night train is still a wonderful experience. Between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, it leaves from Krung Thep Aphiwat station and takes about 12.5 to 13.75 hours. Book a lower berth, which is wider. In air-conditioned second class, expect roughly 760 to 1,040 THB; in first class, in a private compartment, roughly 1,250 to 1,650 THB depending on the train (prices noted in 2026, check when booking).

In town, the Grab app lets you order a car with the fare shown in advance.

Hotels

Check three things before booking: a lift, a room not too far from it, and a BTS station or taxi rank nearby. Many charming small hotels only have stairs.

#TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

Health, insurance and long stays

Before you leave, see your GP a few weeks in advance. Take your prescriptions and enough medication, in the original packaging, in your hand luggage. Take out travel insurance covering medical costs and repatriation: Bangkok’s private hospitals have a good reputation, but they are expensive. Read the policy’s age limits carefully.

Staying longer

Since 15 September 2026, visa-free stays for tourists, including Belgian and French nationals, have been cut from 60 to 30 days. To spend the whole winter there, you will need a visa.

The Non-Immigrant O-A (long stay) visa still exists in 2026 for people aged 50 and over. According to the Royal Thai Embassy in Vienna, it requires, among other things, 800,000 THB in a bank account or a monthly income of at least 65,000 THB, health insurance of at least 3,000,000 THB (or 100,000 USD), a criminal record certificate and a medical certificate. It allows a one-year stay, with a report to immigration every 90 days. Applications are made online through the official e-Visa website. The rules change often, so always check with the Thai embassy in your country before booking.

A culture that respects age

A pleasant surprise: in Thailand, age commands respect. Younger people greet their elders first, with the wai, palms pressed together. On the BTS, some seats are reserved for older passengers, and people will often offer you one. You may be called “lung” (uncle) or “pa” (auntie), an affectionate term. Return the courtesy: a wai, a smile, some patience.

Mr Schaka, himself in his fifties, told the story of his own three months in Thailand in “La Saison du souffle”.

Mr Schaka’s practical tips

• Just one big visit a day, ideally in the morning.
• Always carry a bottle of water, a hat and sun cream in your bag.
• A lower berth on the train, an aisle seat on the plane so you can stand up easily.
• Light, closed shoes: Bangkok’s pavements are often uneven.
• A photo of your prescriptions and insurance policy on your phone.
• A full day of rest after every long journey.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best time for Thailand travel over 50?

The cool season, from mid-October to mid-February, and especially November to January. If possible, avoid April, the hottest month.

Can I stay in Thailand for three months without a visa?

No. Since 15 September 2026, the visa exemption has been 30 days for Belgian and French nationals. For a long stay, check with the Thai embassy.

Is the O-A visa only for retirees?

No, it is open from age 50, provided you meet the financial, insurance and criminal record requirements.

Travelling with rheumatoid arthritis is possible. It just takes a little more preparation. Mr Schaka lives with rheumatoid arthritis and a related pulmonary fibrosis himself, and splits his life between Liège and Thailand. Here are practical tips, drawn from patient organisations and recognised bodies, for travelling with rheumatoid arthritis while keeping enough energy to enjoy the trip. This is general information only: for anything about your health or your treatment, talk to your doctor.

Travelling with rheumatoid arthritis starts with your rheumatologist

The first appointment of the trip is with your rheumatologist or GP, several weeks before you leave. Bring your itinerary, your dates and the activities you have in mind.

A few useful questions to ask:

• Is this a good time to travel, given how the disease is right now?
• How should I organise my treatment during the trip, including across time zones?
• Are my vaccinations up to date, and which ones are recommended for my destination?
• What should I do if I have a flare or a fever while away? Who should I contact?
• Can you give me a prescription and a letter (ideally in English) describing my condition and my medicines?

Vaccinations deserve special attention. The EULAR recommendations (the European Alliance of Associations for Rheumatology) advise checking the vaccination status of people with inflammatory rheumatic diseases every year. Depending on your treatment, some live vaccines may not be recommended. Only your doctor can decide: bring it up early, before you book.

Carrying your medicines without nasty surprises

The golden rule, repeated by every patient organisation: your medicines travel with you, in the cabin, never in the hold. A lost suitcase or a delayed flight should not interrupt a treatment. The Arthritis Foundation also suggests packing a little more than the length of the trip, in case your return is delayed.

• Original packaging, with readable labels.
• Prescription and doctor’s letter close at hand, with a copy on your phone or in your email.
• A written list of your medicines, using the generic names (brand names change from country to country), plus your doctor’s contact details.
• Medicines that must stay cold: ask your pharmacist or the manufacturer about transport conditions, use a suitable cool bag and let the airline know. On arrival, ask for a room with a fridge.

Good to know: for Thailand, the Thai Food and Drug Administration (Thai FDA) generally allows travellers to bring in up to 30 days of personal medication, in its original packaging, with a prescription or a doctor’s letter. Some medicines classed as narcotics or psychotropics need a permit, to be requested online at least two weeks before departure. Rules change: check before you travel on the Thai FDA website or with the Thai embassy.

Light luggage and airport assistance

Long corridors, queues, heavy suitcases: these are often the most tiring part. A few simple choices help:

• A light suitcase with four spinner wheels, which you can push beside you rather than pull.
• Fewer clothes that are easy to mix and match. In Thailand, laundry services are everywhere.
• An aisle seat, so you can get up often. Versus Arthritis suggests moving or changing position roughly every 20 to 30 minutes on long journeys.

Above all, do not hesitate to request assistance for passengers with reduced mobility. It is not only for wheelchair users: it is also for anyone who finds walking long distances or carrying bags difficult. On flights departing from the European Union, this help is free; request it from the airline, travel agent or tour operator at least 48 hours before departure. Elsewhere, ask your airline about its own procedure.

At Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport, wheelchairs are lent free of charge before check-in, on Level 4 (Gate 2), with an ID document. After check-in, your airline takes over. Airline wheelchair passengers and one companion can use the Fast Track lane.

Accommodation that is kind to your joints

A ground-floor room or one near a lift, few steps at the entrance, a practical bathroom: these details matter every day. Versus Arthritis recommends thinking through every stage, right down to the small step in front of the room door.

Feel free to write to the hotel before booking. Ask whether there is a fridge in the room, a lift, a pool (many people enjoy moving in water) and whether it is close to public transport. Staying near what you want to see saves energy every day. If you are also short of breath, Mr Schaka has gathered more ideas in his article travelling in Thailand when you are short of breath.

#TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

Heat, humidity and fatigue: finding your pace

In the tropics, heat and humidity tire everyone out. With rheumatoid arthritis, fatigue is often already a travel companion. Versus Arthritis notes that heat can make hands and ankles swell slightly, and that some treatments make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Ask your doctor or pharmacist whether this applies to you.

• Drink regularly, even when you are not thirsty.
• Keep the hottest hours for shade, a nap or an air-conditioned place.
• Wear loose clothes in natural fabrics, a wide-brimmed hat and a high-protection sunscreen.
• Alternate a busy day with a quiet one. Pick what really matters to you and plan rest right after.

Choosing the right season helps a lot. In Thailand, the coolest and driest period usually runs from November to February: the details are in the guide the best time to visit Thailand, month by month.

Good to know: plan a recovery day when you get home, too. The Arthritis Foundation advises against going straight from an overnight flight to a working day.

Insurance that really covers your condition

This is the point most often overlooked. Many travel insurance policies exclude pre-existing conditions that were not declared. Before you leave, declare your rheumatoid arthritis and any related conditions. Check in writing that the policy covers care linked to the condition, hospital stays and repatriation. Save the assistance phone number in your phone and keep a paper copy. Terms change often: check before you travel.

Frequently asked questions

Can you fly with rheumatoid arthritis?

Yes, many people do. The key is to plan the trip with your doctor, keep your medicines in the cabin and request airport assistance if walking or carrying is difficult.

How much medication can you bring into Thailand?

As a rule, up to 30 days of personal treatment, in its original packaging, with a prescription or doctor’s letter. Some controlled medicines need a permit in advance. Check with the Thai FDA before you travel.

Do I need special vaccinations?

It depends on your destination and your treatment. Some live vaccines may not be recommended: talk to your doctor several weeks before departure.

Is airport assistance free?

On flights departing from the European Union, yes, if requested at least 48 hours in advance. Elsewhere, check with your airline.

Travelling with a body that sometimes protests mostly calls for a gentler pace. That is also the thread of The Season of Breath, the story Mr Schaka drew from his time in Thailand.

Sticky heat, fine-particle smog in the dry season, temple stairs as far as the eye can see: Thailand was not designed for tired lungs. Yet travelling when you are short of breath in Thailand is entirely possible, as long as you pick your season and use a few tricks. Asthma, COPD, lung disease, age or recovery from an illness: this practical guide is for you. Mr Schaka lives with pulmonary fibrosis and has been travelling in Thailand for years. He even wrote a book about it.

Short of breath in Thailand? Start with your doctor

Let’s be clear from the start: this article gives no medical advice. Before you book anything, talk to your lung specialist or your doctor about your plans. Only they can tell you whether the flight, the heat and the pollution are reasonable for you, at what time of year, and what you need to bring. Everything that follows is pure logistics.

Mr Schaka tells the story of his own trip with pulmonary fibrosis in The Season of Breath, a true story. Among other things, you learn that a spiral staircase can become a character in its own right.

Pick the right season: no furnace, no smog

In Thailand, the best season for your lungs is not necessarily the one in the brochures. Two periods call for caution:

• The hot season, March to May. April is usually the hottest month: in Bangkok, daytime highs hover around 35 to 36°C, and nights stay warm. Walking at noon becomes a combat sport.
• The fine-particle (PM2.5) season. In Bangkok, pollution rises mainly during the “cool” season, roughly December to February, sometimes into March. In the north (Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai), crop burning and forest fires push PM2.5 up mostly from January to March, often into April.

The paradox is that the most pleasant months temperature-wise are also the most polluted. The rainy season (roughly June to October) and November often bring cleaner air, at the cost of humidity and showers. For the weather month by month, see the best time to visit Thailand, and decide on your dates with your doctor.

Once there, install an air-quality app: IQAir AirVisual, or Air4Thai, the free app of Thailand’s Pollution Control Department, which shows the air quality index and PM2.5 readings by station. A quick look in the morning, and red days become days for museums, massages or shopping malls.

Bangkok without wearing yourself out

Bangkok is perfectly enjoyable at an ant’s pace. A few simple rules:

• The train rather than the pavement. The BTS (elevated) and the MRT (underground) are air-conditioned. Every MRT station has lifts. On the BTS, not every station has one, and not every exit: the platforms sit high above the street and the stairs can be long. Find the exit with a lift before you get off.
• Grab rather than walking. Eight hundred metres at 34°C on uneven pavements are well worth a car booked through the app.
• The boat, with care. On the Chao Phraya river, the air moves and you stay seated. But the floating piers sway and boarding is quick: avoid rush hour and accept the crew’s helping hand.
• Breaks in shopping malls. Air conditioning, benches, clean toilets, restaurants: the big malls are the city’s unofficial oases. A break is not an admission of weakness, it’s a strategy.

Your choice of neighbourhood matters too. In The Season of Breath, Mr Schaka recounts choosing old Bangkok, in Banglamphu, for one stay: a low-rise district, “almost without stairs”, and a hotel whose lift he had checked before booking. All the practical details on trains and boats are in getting around Bangkok.

Good to know: to plan short trips and avoid detours, install Mr Schaka’s free app Thaïlande en poche. It installs straight from the website and brings together the guide’s maps and addresses: handy for knowing in advance whether a place is two steps or two kilometres away.

Temples: count the steps before you climb

Thai temples love heights. Before you set off, know what to expect:

• Wat Arun (Bangkok). The steps of the great central prang are narrow, very steep, and get steeper as you climb, with few handrails. Visitors can only go up to an intermediate terrace. The temple is just as beautiful from below, or from the opposite bank at sunset.
• The Golden Mount (Wat Saket, Bangkok). 344 steps, but they spiral gently around the hill. Go early in the morning, at your own pace, and stop as often as you need.
• Doi Suthep (Chiang Mai). The famous naga staircase has 306 steps. Good news: a small funicular-style cabin goes up to the temple, for around 50 baht for foreigners (check the fare on site).
• Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. Almost flat, but vast, and the paving reflects the heat. Come at opening time.

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Islands, beaches and hotels: aim for flat

Many islands are mountainous inland. The seafront, though, is often flat. Choose a hotel at beach level rather than a hillside bungalow that looks lovely in photos but sits at the top of dozens of steps. Famous viewpoints have to be earned: on Koh Phi Phi, you climb around 320 concrete steps, then a steep trail, to reach the lookout.

For your hotel, in the city or on the islands, assume nothing: many small hotels and shophouses have no lift. Write before booking and ask for a ground-floor room or one near the lift.

Flights and insurance: what to arrange in advance

As Mr Schaka describes in his book, the air in a plane cabin is like mountain air, thinner in oxygen: healthy lungs don’t notice, others do. If your doctor thinks you need oxygen during the flight, you have to arrange it with the airline well before departure. Every airline has its own rules: a medical form completed by your doctor, whether a portable oxygen concentrator is allowed, how many batteries, how much notice (often at least 48 to 72 hours). Ask as soon as you book. Remember airport assistance too: the corridors are long.

As for insurance, a condition you had before buying the policy generally has to be declared to be covered. Chronic lung conditions often mean an extra premium, and an undeclared condition may not be covered. Read the policy, compare several insurers and check the conditions before you leave.

Good to know: carry your medicines in your hand luggage with the prescription, and ask your doctor for a letter in English summarising your situation. Import rules for some medicines change: check before you travel.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best time to go if I get breathless easily?

There is no universal answer. People often avoid April (heat) and the PM2.5 peaks (December to March in Bangkok, January to April in the north). November is often a good compromise. Make the decision with your doctor.

Does the Bangkok metro have lifts?

Yes, at every MRT station. On the BTS, not everywhere and not at every exit: check before you get off.

Can I avoid the stairs at Doi Suthep?

Yes. A cabin goes up to the temple for around 50 baht (check on site).

Can I get oxygen on the plane?

Sometimes, depending on the airline, only on prior request and with a medical certificate. Talk to your doctor, then to the airline, well before departure.

Read also: Thailand travel over 50: pace, comfort and pleasant surprises