Koh Samui is the big island of the Gulf of Thailand: pale sand beaches, hills covered in coconut palms, temples by the sea and an airport ten minutes from the hotels. Mr Schaka is very fond of it; several chapters of his story The Season of Breath take place here. Here is what you need to plan your trip: how to get there, which beach to choose, what to see and when to go.
How to get to Koh Samui
There are two ways to reach the island: a direct flight, or overland to Surat Thani and then by boat. The first is fast, the second much cheaper.
Direct flight. Samui Airport is owned by Bangkok Airways, which runs almost all flights. From Bangkok there are departures throughout the day from Suvarnabhumi, plus a few from Don Mueang. The flight takes about 1 hr 10 min. Expect roughly 3,000 to 7,000 THB one way depending on the date, checked bag included (check before you go). The airport is 10–20 minutes from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon.
Budget flight + bus + ferry. Several low-cost airlines fly from Don Mueang to Surat Thani (often 1,000 to 2,000 THB). In the arrivals hall you can buy combined bus + ferry tickets: the bus takes you to Donsak pier, and the ferry crosses to Nathon or Lipa Noi on Samui’s west coast. Allow 5 to 7 hours in total. Buy a single through-ticket: if your flight is late, the transfer company will normally wait.
Night train or bus + ferry. Night trains leave from Krung Thep Aphiwat station (no longer Hua Lamphong) and reach Surat Thani’s Phun Phin station early in the morning. A 2nd-class air-conditioned berth costs about 700 to 900 THB. Overnight buses with the ferry included also leave Bangkok. The whole journey takes 12 to 16 hours. The Donsak–Samui ferry alone takes about 1 hr 30 min and costs around 150 to 250 THB.
Koh Samui beaches: where to stay for your travel style
You can drive around the island in just over an hour, yet each coast has its own character. Choosing a beach is really choosing a pace.
- Chaweng (east coast): the longest and busiest beach, with the widest choice of hotels, restaurants and shops. Good for a first visit if you like having everything within walking distance.
- Lamai (east coast, further south): a wide bay, a little quieter than Chaweng, with good mid-range options. The Hin Ta Hin Yai rocks are at the end of the beach.
- Bophut (north coast): a peaceful beach and, above all, the Fisherman’s Village with its old wooden houses and Friday night market. Ideal for couples and evening strolls.
- Maenam (north coast): a long, calm beach facing Koh Phangan, with simple bungalows and some lovely hotels. For real rest.
- Choeng Mon (northeast tip): a small sheltered bay with shallow water, very pleasant with young children.
For a more rural stay, the west coast (Lipa Noi, around Nathon) has sunsets over the sea and gentler prices, but it is further from services.
In short, where to stay:
- First trip, everything close at hand: Chaweng, away from the main road if you want a quiet night.
- Couples: Bophut or Choeng Mon, for quiet evenings and restaurants by the water.
- Families: Choeng Mon or Maenam, for calm sea and a peaceful atmosphere.
- Tight budget: Lamai or Maenam, where simple bungalows can still be found.
Things to do on Koh Samui
- The Big Buddha (Wat Phra Yai): a golden statue about 12 metres tall on a small island linked to the northeast coast by a causeway. Entry is free.
- Wat Plai Laem, close by: a large white many-armed Guanyin statue and pavilions set on a lake.
- Hin Ta Hin Yai rocks, south of Lamai: two rock formations tied to a local legend, a twenty-minute stop.
- Na Muang waterfalls, inland: Na Muang 1 (about 18 m) is a few minutes from the car park; Na Muang 2 needs a steeper half-hour climb. Best after the rains.
- Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village, especially on Friday evening, when the walking street fills with food stalls and craftspeople.
In temples, keep shoulders and knees covered and take off your shoes before entering the halls. All the useful rules are in our article on Thailand etiquette.
A day trip to Ang Thong Marine Park. This is the best outing from Samui. About 20 km to the west, Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park groups some forty limestone islands. Day trips usually include a viewpoint (a steep 30–45 minute climb on Koh Wua Talap), the inner lake of Koh Mae Koh (no swimming there), kayaking and snorkelling. Big boats leave from Nathon and take about 1 hr 30 min; speedboats are faster and cost more.
Good to know: the park entry fee is 300 THB for a foreign adult (150 THB for a child), often paid in cash on the day. The park usually closes from 1 November to mid-December because of the monsoon; dates change every year, so check before you go.
When to go to Koh Samui
Note that Koh Samui does not follow the same calendar as Phuket. In the Gulf of Thailand, the heaviest rains fall from October to December, peaking in November: strong downpours, rough sea, some boat trips cancelled. January to April is the driest and sunniest period, and also the high season, so prices rise. March to May are the hottest months. From June to September there are showers at times, but often less rain than on the Andaman coast: a good time for lower prices. To compare every region, read the best time to visit Thailand, month by month.
Getting around the island
- Songthaew: these blue pick-ups with bench seats follow the ring road. Agree the price before getting in, usually 50 to 100 THB for a short ride. Scarce after dark.
- Ride-hailing apps: Grab works on the island and shows the fare before the ride. Handy from the airport.
- Taxis: plenty of them, but fares are negotiated and stay high.
- Scooter: about 150 to 250 THB a day. Only if you already know how to ride, with a licence valid for motorbikes and a helmet: the hill roads are steep and insurance may refuse to pay without a licence.
Good to know: many travellers pass through Bangkok before or after Samui. For those days, Mr Schaka’s free app Thaïlande en poche brings together the maps and addresses from his guide; it installs straight from the website.
Frequently asked questions
How many days should I spend on Koh Samui?
Four to five days let you see the temples and waterfalls and do the Ang Thong trip, with time left for the beach. A week if you also want to visit Koh Phangan or Koh Tao.
What is the quietest beach on Koh Samui?
Maenam and Choeng Mon are the most peaceful. Bophut is calm by day and livens up a little in the evening around the Fisherman’s Village.
Can I visit Koh Samui in the rainy season?
Yes, but from October to December the sea can be rough and some boat trips are cancelled. Keep some slack in your plans and favour visits on land.
Is the ferry a good alternative to flying?
Yes, if you have time and a tight budget. The journey is long but simple with a combined ticket, and it often costs several times less than the direct flight.
The book
Koh Samui is more than its beaches: several chapters of The Season of Breath unfold here, between sea, hills and the light of the Gulf. A story to see the island differently, available in English.
