Every year, on the full moon that closes Buddhist Lent, thousands of people gather on the banks of the Mekong to watch for the Naga fireballs. In 2026, the date is Monday 26 October, in Nong Khai province, facing Laos. Here is how to get there from Bangkok, where to stand and how to enjoy the night respectfully.
Ok Phansa 2026: the right date
The phenomenon is expected on the night of Ok Phansa (or Awk Phansa), which marks the end of the monks’ three-month retreat. In the Thai lunar calendar, it falls on the 15th day of the waxing moon of the 11th month. In 2026, that is Monday 26 October.
Celebrations run for several days around that date. Announced programmes go roughly from 22 to 28 October in Nong Khai town, and into early November in Phon Phisai. Exact dates can shift, so check them locally or with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) before booking.
What you see, and what people say
After dark, reddish glowing balls seem to rise out of the river. They climb silently, with no smoke, for several dozen metres, then vanish. Some nights you count a handful; on others, many more. They come in bursts, with long waits in between.
For many locals, they are sent by the Phaya Nak, the great mythical serpent of the Mekong, as an offering to the Buddha. Hence the Thai name, Bung Fai Phaya Nak. Others suggest natural explanations, such as gases from the muddy riverbed, or human ones, such as flares fired from the other bank. No theory convinces everyone. My advice: come for the atmosphere and the devotion, not to settle the debate. And keep mocking remarks to yourself in the crowd.
Where to watch: Phon Phisai and the Nong Khai riverbanks
Nong Khai town has the main stage, the food stalls and most of the hotels. It is convenient, but usually few fireballs are seen there.
Most sightings are reported further downstream, in Phon Phisai district, about 50 km from town, and further on towards Rattanawapi. The banks are set up for the festival and access to the riverside is free. Arrive before sunset to find a spot, and plan to stay late.
There is no official shuttle to Phon Phisai. The easiest option is to hire a car with a driver and agree on a return time in advance: the roads are very busy after the show.
Processions, illuminated boats and almsgiving
The fireball night is only part of the festival. Previous editions have featured a wax castle procession, illuminated boats on the Mekong (Lai Ruea Fai), long-boat races, shows about the Naga legend and street markets. The 2026 programme is not yet detailed everywhere, so ask locally.
The next morning, many temples hold Tak Bat Devo, a large almsgiving to the monks. If you attend, stay discreet, dress properly and do not walk in front of people praying to get a photo.
How to get there from Bangkok
By night train
This is my favourite option. Special Express No. 25 leaves Krung Thep Aphiwat station at around 20:25 and reaches Nong Khai at around 06:30, after a stop in Udon Thani. Expect about 900 to 1,000 THB for a second-class sleeper berth (fares to be checked, they change). Book early on the State Railway of Thailand website: these dates sell out fast.
By plane, then by road
The flight from Bangkok to Udon Thani takes about an hour. After that, it is roughly 55 km by road to Nong Khai, by minivan, taxi or hire car. Fares climb as the festival approaches.
By bus
Buses leave from the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit), mostly in the evening. The journey takes about 10 hours, from around 450 THB depending on the company and class (indicative price, to be checked). It is the cheapest option, not the most comfortable.
Where to stay, crowds and heat
Hotels in Nong Khai and Phon Phisai are full weeks ahead. Book as soon as you can, or stay in the larger city of Udon Thani and accept the drive. Riverside homestays are a lovely option if you can find one with space.
Expect dense crowds, especially on the evening of the 26th. It is still hot and humid in late October, mosquitoes are out and the banks are poorly lit. To explore the rest of the region, read my guide to Isan, the authentic northeast.
Mr Schaka’s practical tips
- Book your train and accommodation now: everything fills up in late October.
- Reach the riverbank before sunset and bring plenty of patience.
- Pack a head torch, mosquito repellent, water and a small mat.
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, especially near temples.
- Do not mock local beliefs or push anyone aside for a photo. Brush up on the etiquette rules in Thailand.
- Agree on a return time with your driver before you set off.
Frequently asked questions
When can you see the Naga fireballs in 2026?
On the night of Ok Phansa, Monday 26 October 2026. Sightings are sometimes reported the night before and the night after.
Are you sure to see fireballs?
No. Their number varies a lot from year to year and from place to place. Phon Phisai remains the most often mentioned area.
What is the best way to get there from Bangkok?
The night train to arrive rested, or a flight to Udon Thani if you are short of time. Either way, book early.
To go further
Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Isan – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.
