Liège in winter is a grey, damp city where the day ends at four. That is no reason to stay in your hotel: it is the season when the city shows its real character.
The Christmas village
From late November to late December, Place Saint-Lambert hosts a Christmas market that occupies the heart of the city. Chalets, mulled wine, useless objects: the ritual is familiar, but in Liège it takes on a particular colour, between the smell of waffles and the light on the palace facades.
Museums, without the crowds
It is the ideal season for museums: La Boverie, the Grand Curtius, the Museum of Walloon Life. You go in to warm up and stay two hours, because outside it is already dark.
Cafés, as an institution
The Liège winter happens largely indoors. The cafés of the centre, the Carré and the streets behind the cathedral are made for this: a table, a hot drink, and rain on the cobbles.
The Meuse in the fog
The quays, early morning, when the river disappears into mist, offer a silent and almost unreal version of the city. It is the best moment to walk without meeting anyone.
Climbing Bueren in the cold
The 374 steps are more impressive in the cold: the air bites, the city can be guessed below, and the climb warms you. Come down through the lanes of Hors-Château, out of the wind.
Practical information
Bring a waterproof layer and shoes that hold on wet cobbles. Days are short: plan outdoor outings before 3 pm. And check museum hours, which are shorter in winter.
FAQ
When is the Christmas market?
From late November to late December, on Place Saint-Lambert.
Do I need a car?
No, everything is on foot in the centre. A car is a handicap.
Worst moment?
January and February, without the Christmas lights. It is also the quietest time for museums.
Also read
The book
The Empty Wall is the second book of Oscar’s Notebook, a series of crime novels set in Liège.
