Koh Chang is Thailand’s second largest island, in Trat province, in the eastern gulf. Covered in jungle, lined with beaches along the west coast, crossed by roads that climb and fall constantly. You come for the sea and stay for the forest.
Understanding the island
About thirty kilometres long. The west coast holds beaches and accommodation; the east is wilder, with fishing villages and mangroves. The interior is dense forest, much of it a national park.
The beaches
White Sand Beach, in the north, is the liveliest. Klong Prao, further south, is more family-friendly with a long beach. Kai Bae is a compromise: shops, restaurants, decent beach. Lonely Beach is the backpacker spot. To the south, Bailan and beyond are quietest.
Waterfalls
Klong Plu is the most accessible: a fall in the forest with a pool for swimming. Others are harder to reach and some need a guide. In the dry season the flow drops.
The mangrove
On the east side, preserved mangrove is visited by boat or on footbridges: birds, crabs, an ecosystem unlike the beaches.
Diving and snorkelling
Reefs around Koh Chang are not Thailand’s most spectacular but offer good dives, especially towards the southern islets. Several centres run day trips, including for beginners.
Getting there
Bangkok to Trat by road (five to six hours) or a flight, then ferry from Laem Ngop. Crossings take about forty minutes. Check times: last departures are late afternoon.
Getting around
Songthaews serve the main beaches. Scooters are possible but dangerous: narrow, winding, steep roads and frequent accidents. If you ride, wear a helmet and avoid night.
The season
November to February: calm sea, clear sky, best period. March to May: hotter, still pleasant. June to October: monsoon showers and rougher sea; some tours cancelled, waterfalls finer.
Where to stay
Very varied: simple bungalows, resorts with pools, boutique hotels. Prices stay below the southern islands.
What to budget
Cheaper than Phuket or Samui. The main cost is transport from Bangkok.
With children
Klong Prao and Kai Bae suit families: calm water in the dry season, restaurants nearby, pools. Waterfalls and mangrove are easy outings. Avoid scooters.
Mistakes to avoid
Arriving without checking the last ferry. Thinking the island can be crossed on foot. Underestimating distances and slopes. And coming in full monsoon hoping for a calm sea.
FAQ
How long to stay?
Four to five days for beaches and forest, a week for a slower stay.
Do you need a car?
No, songthaews suffice, but a car helps for excursions.
Can you swim all year?
Yes, but the sea is rougher in the monsoon.
Is there an airport?
In Trat, on the mainland, with a transfer to the ferry.
Good for families?
Yes, on the west coast.
Also read
- How to visit the Similan Islands
- What to do in Koh Samet for a weekend
To go further
Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Secret Thailand – Where Nobody Goes – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.
