Krabi Railay and Ao Nang: the practical guide

Krabi Railay and Ao Nang: the practical guide

By Mr Schaka ·

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Limestone cliffs dropping into turquoise water, wooden boats pulled up on the sand, islands half an hour away by boat: Krabi province, on the Andaman Sea, leaves few travellers indifferent. This Krabi Railay guide covers the essentials: choosing between Ao Nang and Railay, the beaches, the Tiger Cave Temple, boat trips, nearby Koh Lanta, the best season and how to get there. Prices were checked in 2026: confirm them locally.

Getting to Krabi Railay: plane, bus and boat

Krabi has no train station. Flying from Bangkok is the easiest option, but the night bus and night train suit tighter budgets.

  • Plane: about 1 h 20 from Bangkok (Don Mueang or Suvarnabhumi), with many flights a day. Book a few weeks ahead and tickets often cost between 900 and 2,000 THB.
  • Night bus: 11 to 12 hours from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai), about 700 to 1,100 THB depending on the class.
  • Train + bus: night train to Surat Thani (Phun Phin station), then a bus or minivan to Krabi. Allow 14 to 15 hours in total.
  • Airport to Ao Nang: the shuttle bus costs about 150 THB (40 to 60 minutes). A pre-booked private car or a Grab ride starts at around 500 THB.

Ao Nang or Krabi Town: where to stay

Ao Nang is the beach resort on the coast, about 40 minutes from the airport: hotels at every price, restaurants, tour agencies and a decent beach. Above all, it is where the longtail boats to Railay and most island trips leave from. Next door, Noppharat Thara beach is quieter.

Krabi Town, some twenty kilometres away, feels more Thai and costs less, with a lively night market, but it is far from the sea. It is, however, close to the Tiger Cave Temple. Mr Schaka recommends Ao Nang for a first stay, and Railay for two or three nights if your budget allows.

Railay, Phra Nang and Tonsai: the peninsula with no road

Railay is not an island: it is a peninsula cut off from the mainland by cliffs. No road leads there, so you can only arrive by boat. From Ao Nang, the longtail to Railay West costs 100 THB per person during the day (200 THB return), a little more in the evening. The boat leaves once it has about eight passengers. You get off in the water, often knee-deep: wear sandals and keep your bag above your waist. With heavy luggage, it is better to leave from Ao Nam Mao pier, which serves Railay East via a floating jetty.

  • Railay West: white sand, huge cliffs, sunsets. Hotels here cost more.
  • Railay East: a mangrove shore, not good for swimming, but cheaper places to stay.
  • Phra Nang: Railay’s postcard beach, about ten minutes on foot from Railay East. At the end of the beach, the Princess Cave is a local shrine covered in offerings: please be respectful. Come early, as crowds build from 11 am.
  • Tonsai: the neighbouring cove, simpler and quieter, a favourite with climbers. A ten-minute jungle trail links it to Railay: wear closed shoes, and never walk it at night.

Railay is also a major climbing spot, with hundreds of bolted routes and schools that guide beginners. The viewpoint and lagoon trail above Railay East is an almost vertical climb with ropes: only for fit people with good shoes.

Good to know: after sunset, longtails become rare and you may have to charter a boat for several hundred baht. If you sleep in Ao Nang, keep your return ticket and head back before dark.

Tiger Cave Temple: 1,260 steps to the top

Wat Tham Suea, or the Tiger Cave Temple, is about 9 km from Krabi Town and some thirty minutes from Ao Nang. Its staircase has about 1,260 steps (an old sign still says 1,237). You climb roughly 300 metres, in 40 minutes to an hour depending on your fitness. At the top: a large golden Buddha and a 360-degree view over the forest and limestone peaks.

  • Free entry, donations welcome.
  • Cover shoulders and knees. Sarongs can be rented on site.
  • Macaques live at the bottom of the stairs: keep your bag closed and no food in your hands.
  • Climb early in the morning or late in the afternoon, with water: at midday the heat makes it much harder.

This climb takes real effort. If you have a heart or breathing condition, talk to your doctor before your trip, and read our tips on travelling in Thailand when you are short of breath.

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Boat trips: 4 Islands, Hong Islands and Koh Lanta

Ao Nang’s agencies all sell the same classics. Compare prices and always ask whether the national park fee is included.

  • 4 Islands tour: Phra Nang, Koh Tup and Koh Mor (linked by a sandbar at low tide), Chicken Island (Koh Kai) and Koh Poda. By shared longtail, expect about 600 to 1,200 THB, a little more by speedboat. The fee for Hat Noppharat Thara – Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park is often extra: 400 THB per foreign adult, in cash (check before you go).
  • Hong Islands: north-west of Ao Nang, with an inner lagoon ringed by cliffs. Expect around 800 to 2,000 THB depending on the boat and trip length. These islands belong to another national park, with its own entrance fee.

Koh Lanta, further south, is a large island with long beaches and a slow pace, perfect to end a trip. From roughly November to April, speedboats link it to Ao Nang in 1 h 30 to 2 h. All year round, a minivan with a car-ferry crossing takes about 3 hours, for 250 to 600 THB depending on the operator. To compare with other islands, see which Thai island to choose.

When to go to Krabi?

The best period is November to April: dry weather, calm sea, daily boat trips. December and January are the busiest and most expensive months; February to April is a good compromise. From May to October, the south-west monsoon brings showers and wind. It is often sunny between the rains, but the sea can be rough: trips get cancelled and some boats to Koh Lanta stop running. In return, you get fewer crowds and cheaper hotels. For a month-by-month view, see the best time to visit Thailand.

Good to know: almost every trip to Krabi goes through Bangkok. For your days in the capital, Mr Schaka’s free app Thaïlande en poche installs straight from the website and brings together the guide’s maps and addresses.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drive to Railay?

No. Railay is surrounded by cliffs and no road leads there. You go by longtail from Ao Nang (100 THB during the day) or from Ao Nam Mao pier.

How many steps does the Tiger Cave Temple have?

About 1,260 steps, for nearly 300 metres of climbing. Allow 40 minutes to an hour to reach the top.

Should I stay in Ao Nang or Railay?

Ao Nang is more practical and cheaper. Railay offers the scenery and quiet evenings. Many travellers do both.

What is the best season for Krabi?

November to April, during the dry season. From May to October the sea is rougher and some boat services are suspended.

Cover of Krabi, Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta – The Practical Guide

Want to dig deeper?

Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Krabi, Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

Letters from Mr Schaka

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