The Grand Curtius in Liège is a red-brick palace on the Meuse, and behind its mullioned windows thousands of objects tell the city’s story: weapons, Mosan goldwork, glass, archaeological finds. I go back often, especially in autumn, when the quay turns grey and the museum smells of stone and old wood. Here is how to visit without missing anything, then how to stretch the day into the lanes of Féronstrée and Hors-Château.
A Renaissance palace on the banks of the Meuse
The heart of the museum is the Curtius Palace, built at the end of the 16th or the start of the 17th century for Jean de Corte, known as Curtius. He made his fortune trading weapons and gunpowder.
The Grand Curtius opened in March 2009. The city brought together collections that used to be scattered: the Arms Museum, the Glass Museum, the Archaeology and Decorative Arts Museum, and the Religious and Mosan Art Museum. The whole complex spreads across several connected buildings, including the Brahy, Hayme de Bomal and Wilde mansions, over more than 5,000 m². There are two entrances: Féronstrée 136 on the town side and Quai de Maestricht 13 on the river side.
The collections: weapons, Mosan art, glass and archaeology
Weapons. Several thousand firearms and blades, with one common thread: the skill of Liège’s gunsmiths. Even if the subject leaves you cold, you quickly see why Liège was long a capital of arms-making.
Religious and Mosan art. In the Middle Ages, the workshops of the Meuse valley produced goldwork and sculpture of rare finesse. It is the quietest section, and often the most moving.
Glass. From Antiquity to the present day, built on Alfred Baar’s collection.
Archaeology and decorative arts. The core comes from the Liège Archaeological Institute, which had already opened a museum at the Curtius in 1909. You then move on to furniture, ceramics and work by Liège makers such as Jean Delcour and Gustave Serrurier-Bovy.
What not to miss
- Notger’s Gospel, the masterpiece of Mosan art, with its ivory and goldwork cover.
- The Virgin of Dom Rupert, a gentle stone relief, to be found in the religious art rooms.
- The weapons rooms, for the contrast between beautiful decoration and the purpose of the objects.
- The palace interiors: ceilings, fireplaces, staircases. Look up, the building is a work of art in itself.
- The view over the Meuse from the upper floors, especially in late afternoon.
Opening hours, prices, time needed and getting there
The museum is open from 10am to 6pm every day except Tuesday. It also closes on 1 January, 1 May, 1, 2 and 11 November and 25 December.
An adult ticket costs €9, the reduced rate (seniors, groups, jobseekers) €5. Entry is free for under-26s and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month (prices checked in 2026). Allow about two to three hours for a full visit without rushing; an hour and a half is enough if you focus on two or three sections.
From Liège-Guillemins or Saint-Lambert station, the tram towards Coronmeuse stops at “Curtius”, right opposite the entrance. On the way back, take the tram towards Standard from the “Féronstrée” stop. By car, the Saint-Georges, Cité, Saint-Lambert and Saint-Denis car parks are less than 500 m away. From April to October, the river shuttle also stops in front of the museum. The building is accessible for people with reduced mobility.
Féronstrée and Hors-Château: a crime fiction lover’s neighbourhood
Leave by the town-side exit and you are on Féronstrée, a long shopping street running towards Place du Marché. Just behind it, Rue Hors-Château has a different mood: cobbles, old façades, and small doors opening onto blind alleys, such as Impasse de la Couronne or Impasse des Ursulines. You step in almost apologising. The noise of the city stops dead.
On an autumn evening, it is the perfect setting for anyone who loves crime novels. Night falls early, the yellow light of the lamps slides over the wet cobbles, and the Montagne de Bueren staircase, with its 374 steps, climbs into the dark towards the Citadel slopes. It is easy to picture a witness hesitating at the corner of a courtyard, a missed meeting, a figure slipping away towards the Meuse.
A few steps away, the Cour des Mineurs houses another museum I am very fond of: the Museum of Walloon Life and its puppets. On Sunday mornings, La Batte market stretches along the quays, right in front of the Grand Curtius.
Mr Schaka’s practical tips
- Aim for the first Sunday of the month for free entry, but expect bigger crowds.
- In autumn, arrive around 3pm: you finish at 6pm, just as the neighbourhood is at its most beautiful.
- Do not come on a Tuesday, or on 1, 2 or 11 November.
- On Sundays, access to the Cité and Saint-Georges car parks changes because of the market: take the tram instead.
- Wear good shoes for Bueren and the alleys, the cobbles are slippery in the rain.
- To fill the rest of your stay, see my ideas for a weekend in Liège.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Grand Curtius open on Mondays?
Yes. The museum is open Wednesday to Monday, from 10am to 6pm. It is closed on Tuesdays and on some public holidays.
How much does the Grand Curtius cost?
€9 full price, €5 reduced. It is free for under-26s and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month (prices checked in 2026).
How long should I allow for the visit?
About two to three hours to see everything at a relaxed pace. Add an hour to wander through Hors-Château afterwards and climb the Montagne de Bueren.
The book
Liège, its back streets and its museums are the setting of Oscar’s Notebook, Mr Schaka’s crime series: short investigations that read like a walk through the city.
