Category: Thailand Notebook

Practical tips and travel stories from Thailand: Bangkok, Pattaya, Isan, the islands.

  • Khao Yai National Park from Bangkok: a practical guide

    Khao Yai National Park from Bangkok: a practical guide

    About 180 km north-east of the capital, Khao Yai National Park is the easiest big forest to reach from Bangkok. Waterfalls, gibbons, wild elephants and cooler air: here is how to get there, what it costs and how much time to allow.

    Why go to Khao Yai

    The park covers more than 2,100 km² of forest and grassland. It is part of the Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Khao Khieo viewpoint rises to about 1,290 m: the air is easier to breathe than in Bangkok, and nights can be cool.

    How to get to Khao Yai from Bangkok

    By car

    Allow about 176 km to the northern entrance: Route 1, then Route 2 (Mittraphap) towards Saraburi and Pak Chong, then Route 2090 for the last 22 km. The drive takes about 2.5 to 3 hours depending on traffic. This is the most practical option, because distances inside the park are long.

    By bus or minivan

    Buses and minivans leave regularly from Mo Chit bus terminal for Pak Chong, for about 180 baht (check the price on the day). Allow 3 to 4 hours. Make sure your vehicle stops at Pak Chong: some go straight on to Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat).

    By train to Pak Chong

    Trains leave from Krung Thep Aphiwat station. The fastest leaves very early (around 6.10am) and takes just under 3 hours. A later rapid train takes about 3 hours 40 minutes, from about 85 baht in third class. Timetables change, so check them on the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) website. To reach the station, see getting around Bangkok.

    From Pak Chong to the park

    Songthaews (shared pick-ups) run between Pak Chong and the northern gate, roughly from 8am to 4.30pm. After that you need a vehicle: walking along the road to the visitor centre is not allowed. Without a car, the easiest options are to hire a scooter or book a day tour with an agency in Pak Chong.

    Entrance fees and opening hours

    Official Department of National Parks rates at the Pak Chong and Noen Hom gates (prices checked in 2026):

    • Foreign adult: 400 baht
    • Foreign child (under 14): 200 baht
    • Car: 30 baht; motorbike: 20 baht
    • Opening hours: daily, 6am to 6pm

    The ticket is valid for the day: you can leave and come back the same day without paying again. Pay at the gate, or through the Department of National Parks e-ticket app. Bring cash.

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    Waterfalls and wildlife

    Waterfalls not to miss

    Haew Suwat is the best known: a drop of about 20 to 25 m into a large pool, made famous by the film The Beach. It lies about 10 km from the visitor centre. A trail of about 3 km links it to Pha Kluai Mai, smaller but charming.

    Haew Narok is the tallest in the park: about 150 m over three tiers. It is 22 km from the visitor centre, followed by a 1 km walk and a steep staircase. Swimming is forbidden at all the waterfalls.

    The animals

    In the morning you hear the gibbons. Macaques hang around the roadsides, sambar deer graze the grasslands, and hornbills are easy to spot. Wild elephants sometimes cross the road.

    In the evening, rangers run a night safari by pick-up: departures around 7pm and 8pm, 600 baht per vehicle (up to 8 people), to be booked at the visitor centre before 6pm.

    Best season and how many days

    From November to February it is dry and cool: the most pleasant time, but also the busiest. From June to October the waterfalls are spectacular, but leeches are out and some trails or viewpoints may close. In March and April it is hot and the waterfalls shrink. For the general climate, see the best time to visit Bangkok.

    A day trip from Bangkok is possible by car, but it is a long day. Ideally, allow 2 days and 1 night. Take 3 days if you like hiking or want to do the night safari without rushing.

    Where to stay

    Most accommodation is in Pak Chong and along Route 2090 (Thanarat Road), between the town and the northern gate: guesthouses, hotels and resorts for every budget.

    Inside the park, the Department of National Parks rents simple bungalows (from about 800 baht for two) and camping pitches (about 80 baht per person per night, tents for hire). At weekends and on Thai public holidays, book ahead.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Arrive early: the park opens at 6am and animals are more active in the morning.
    • Fill up with fuel in Pak Chong; there is no petrol station in the heart of the park.
    • Never feed the macaques and keep food out of sight.
    • If you meet an elephant on the road: stay in the car, keep your distance, do not use the horn.
    • Closed shoes and long socks in the rainy season, because of leeches.

    Frequently asked questions

    Can you visit Khao Yai in a day from Bangkok?

    Yes, by car and with a very early start. But with 5 to 6 hours of driving there and back, a night on site is far more comfortable.

    How much is the entrance fee for foreigners?

    400 baht per adult and 200 baht per child under 14, plus 30 baht per car (prices checked in 2026).

    Can you swim in the waterfalls?

    No. Swimming is forbidden at the park’s waterfalls, mainly because of the currents.

    Cover of Bangkok – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • PM2.5 in Thailand: when, where and how to plan your trip

    PM2.5 in Thailand: when, where and how to plan your trip

    Between December and April, PM2.5 in Thailand can spoil part of a trip, especially in the north. With a little planning, though, you stay in control. Here is when, where and how to handle it, with the tools I use myself between Bangkok and the rest of the country.

    The smoke season: mostly in the north

    PM2.5 are very fine particles, less than 2.5 micrometres across. In Thailand, levels rise during the dry season, roughly from December to April, sometimes into May.

    The north is hit hardest. Around Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Mae Hong Son, farm fires and forest fires multiply from February. According to NASA’s Earth Observatory, fire activity usually peaks in March, and April often stays very hazy. Biomass burning is estimated to cause about 70% of fine particles in Chiang Mai in April.

    The landscape does not help: the mountains around the valleys block the air and trap the haze. Things usually improve in May, when the rains return. In the north, the tricky period therefore runs from February to April, often peaking in March.

    Bangkok in the dry season

    Bangkok has no forest fires, but the capital has its own problems. According to Thailand’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment, the worst period there runs from December to March. Traffic, industry and crop burning in nearby provinces all add up.

    The weather plays a part too. In the dry season, a temperature inversion acts like a lid and keeps the dust close to the ground. January and February are often the months when the standard is exceeded most.

    The irony is that this is also the most pleasant season for temperatures. I cover the seasons in my article on the best time to visit Bangkok.

    Reading the AQI without getting it wrong

    The AQI (Air Quality Index) is a unitless index calculated from several pollutants. Be careful: two scales are in use, and the same number does not mean the same thing on each.

    The US scale (IQAir)

    Most international apps show the US AQI: 0 to 50 “good”, 51 to 100 “moderate”, 101 to 150 “unhealthy for sensitive groups”, 151 to 200 “unhealthy”, 201 to 300 “very unhealthy”, above 300 “hazardous”.

    The Thai scale (Air4Thai)

    The Pollution Control Department (PCD) uses its own five-colour scale: blue, green, yellow, orange and red. Since 1 June 2023, warnings start at 37.5 µg/m³ of PM2.5 averaged over 24 hours, and red begins at 75.1 µg/m³. For reference, the WHO recommends not exceeding 15 µg/m³ over 24 hours. My habit: look straight at the PM2.5 figure in µg/m³, which tells you more than the index.

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    Apps to track air quality

    Air4Thai is the PCD’s free official app, on iPhone and Android. The number shown inside the little face is the 24-hour PM2.5 average for the nearest station, updated every hour.

    IQAir AirVisual is the other app I keep on my phone. It shows the US AQI, a map and forecasts for a few days ahead, handy for comparing cities before booking a bus or a domestic flight.

    Do not compare figures from one app to another without checking which scale they use. Look at the trend over the day instead. In Bangkok, readings often rise in the evening and drop a little by early morning.

    Where to breathe easier: the south and the islands

    During the northern smoke season, the south is generally much less affected. There is less crop burning and the sea breeze helps disperse the particles. Phuket, Krabi, Koh Lanta, Koh Phangan and Koh Lipe are good options from February to April.

    It is not an absolute guarantee. The south can receive smoke from fires in Indonesia, usually later in the year: in October 2015, several southern provinces had a severe haze episode blown in from Sumatra. A quick look at the apps before booking is still worthwhile.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Pick your dates: for the north, aim for November to January, before most of the fires. For Bangkok, keep some flexibility in January and February.
    • Flip your route: from February to April, give the southern islands pride of place and save the north for another season.
    • Check the AQI every morning: two minutes on Air4Thai or IQAir before planning the day.
    • Have an indoor plan B: museums, air-conditioned shopping centres, cooking classes, a massage. In Bangkok, the BTS and MRT spare you long walks along busy roads; see my guide to getting around Bangkok.
    • N95 or FFP2 masks: you can find them everywhere, in 7-Eleven shops and pharmacies. A cloth mask does not filter fine particles. Choose one that fits your face snugly.
    • Go out early: temples, markets and walks are better when the air is at its cleanest.
    • Accommodation: keep windows shut and use the air conditioning; some hotels lend air purifiers, so ask when you book.
    • Fragile breathing: ask your doctor for advice before you travel.

    Frequently asked questions

    When is pollution worst in Chiang Mai?

    Usually from February to April, often peaking in March. The air generally improves in May, when the rains return.

    Which official app should I use in Thailand?

    Air4Thai, the free app from the Pollution Control Department. IQAir AirVisual complements it well for forecasts and the US scale.

    Where can I buy an N95 or FFP2 mask?

    In most 7-Eleven shops and pharmacies. Bring several: a mask is not meant to be worn several days in a row.

    Cover of The Season of Breath

    The book

    Mr Schaka lives with pulmonary fibrosis and has been travelling in Thailand for years. In The Season of Breath he tells the story of that journey, one step at a time, with humour and no self-pity.

  • Thai Fruits Guide: Durian, Mangosteen, Seasons and Prices

    Thai Fruits Guide: Durian, Mangosteen, Seasons and Prices

    Thai fruits are one of the great pleasures of a stay in Thailand. Durian, mangosteen, rambutan, mango: here is what they look like, when to find them, how to choose them and what to pay. Plus the rules to know before you carry a durian back to your hotel.

    The stars of the hot and rainy seasons

    Durian

    A large green-brown fruit covered in spikes, with creamy yellow flesh. The taste is like almond custard, but the very strong smell divides people. The most common variety, monthong, is fairly mild: a good choice for a first try. Season: mainly April to August, peaking around May. To choose, ask the seller to open the fruit in front of you, or buy pieces in a tray: the flesh should be neither too hard nor too soft. In 2025, Rayong monthong sold for an average of 120 to 220 baht per kilo.

    Mangosteen

    A small ball with thick, dark purple skin and white flesh in segments. Sweet, slightly tangy and very refreshing. Peak season is around May and June, and it is often still around in summer. To open it, score the skin in a circle with a knife without cutting the flesh, then lift off the top. Careful: the purple juice stains. Choose skin that gives a little under your finger, not hard as wood. Expect 40 to 50 baht per kilo at a local market in season, up to 100 baht at tourist stalls (prices checked in 2026).

    Rambutan and longan

    Rambutan has red skin covered in soft hairs; longan has a thin beige skin. Both have translucent flesh around a stone, sweet and juicy, close to lychee. Rambutan is around from roughly May to September, longan mainly in July and August. Pinch the skin with your nails, pop the fruit in your mouth and spit out the stone. About 40 to 50 baht per kilo of rambutans at the market (2026).

    Mango, dragon fruit, jackfruit and rose apple

    Mango

    The queen of summer. Nam dok mai, yellow and very sweet, is the best known. Season: late March to July, with about 70% of the crop reaching markets between March and May. A ripe mango gives slightly under your finger and smells sweet near the stem. Expect 50 to 60 baht per kilo at a local market (2026). The classic to try: mango sticky rice, around 140 baht a portion on average according to a 2025 estimate.

    Dragon fruit

    Bright pink skin with green scales, white or red flesh dotted with tiny black seeds. Very mild taste, with a texture close to kiwi. Cut it in half and eat it with a spoon, well chilled. It is available for much of the year, especially April to October. About 60 baht per kilo at the market (2026).

    Jackfruit

    A huge fruit with bumpy green skin, but no real spikes and no strong smell: do not mix it up with durian. Inside are firm, sweet yellow pods. Best period: roughly January to May.

    Rose apple (chomphu)

    A bell-shaped fruit with waxy green or pink skin. Crunchy, juicy and only lightly sweet: perfect in the heat. Available almost all year, best in the cool season, around December.

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    Where to buy fruit in Bangkok

    Everywhere: street carts, neighbourhood markets, supermarkets. Carts sell ready-cut fruit in a bag with a wooden skewer.

    For quality, head to Or Tor Kor market, opposite Chatuchak Weekend Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet, exit 3). It opens every day, roughly 6am to 6pm. The fruit is superb and sellers let you taste, but prices are a little higher than elsewhere.

    For lower prices, try Khlong Toei market (MRT Khlong Toei, exit 1), which opens very early, roughly 4am to 2pm. For getting there, see my guide to getting around Bangkok.

    A simple rule: stalls in very touristy areas can charge up to double. Prices are per kilo; ask before the fruit is weighed.

    Durian: the rules to know

    Its smell clings to closed, air-conditioned spaces. As a result, many hotels put up a “No durian” sign at the entrance or in the lifts. Check your hotel’s rules before taking one up to your room.

    The same goes for transport. Since May 2023, Bangkok’s public buses (BMTA) have banned durian on board, based on a 2014 directive against strong-smelling items. The BTS operator also asks passengers not to bring durian onto the train. For the MRT, taxis or planes, assume it is frowned upon or refused: check case by case.

    The simplest solution: eat it on the spot, at the market.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Shop in the morning: the fruit is fresher and the markets are cooler.
    • Follow the season: March to July is the time of plenty. For the weather, see the best time to visit Bangkok.
    • Ask to taste: at good markets, it is normal.
    • Start with cut fruit to try things cheaply before buying by the kilo.
    • No durian in your room without the hotel’s agreement, and none in your suitcase.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the best season for fruit in Thailand?

    Roughly March to July: mango, durian, mangosteen and rambutan all arrive at the same time.

    Can I take a durian back to my hotel?

    Often not. Many hotels ban it because of the smell. Ask at reception, or eat it at the market.

    How much does a kilo of mangoes cost?

    About 50 to 60 baht at a local market in season, and 60 to 80 baht at tourist stalls (prices checked in 2026).

    Cover of Bangkok – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Erawan Falls guide: the 7 tiers, opening hours, fees and access

    Erawan Falls guide: the 7 tiers, opening hours, fees and access

    Erawan Falls is the finest place to swim in Kanchanaburi province: seven tiers of waterfalls and emerald-green pools deep in the forest. It lies about 65 km from Kanchanaburi town and can be done as a long day trip from Bangkok, as long as you set off early.

    The 7 tiers of Erawan Falls

    The waterfall is in Erawan National Park. It is named after the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology: the top tier is said to resemble its shape. A trail of about 2 km links the seven main tiers, from the visitor centre to the top.

    Tiers 1 to 3: an easy stroll

    The first three tiers are easy to reach along an almost flat path. The pools are shallow and suit children. This is where the crowds gather, especially around midday. An electric cart (about 20 baht) can take you roughly 700 m towards the first tiers.

    Tiers 4 to 7: a short hike

    After tier 4 the trail gets steeper: steps, roots, wet rocks and sometimes a rope to hold on to. There are fewer people and the pools feel wilder. Allow three to four hours on site to reach tier 7 without rushing and swim along the way. After heavy rain, rangers may close the upper section.

    Swimming and fish

    Swimming is allowed in most pools. The water is clear and cool. Most pools are shallow, but some have deep spots in the middle: if you are not a strong swimmer, stay near the edge. Changing rooms and toilets are near the first tiers.

    You will not be alone in the water. The pools are full of fish, including small ones that nibble at your feet and legs. It does not hurt, it tickles. If it bothers you, keep your water shoes on.

    Opening hours and entrance fee (prices checked in 2026)

    • Opening hours: daily, from 8am to around 4.30pm, public holidays included.
    • Last entry: around 3.30pm.
    • Cut-off for the upper tiers: from around 3pm, rangers start sending visitors down from tier 7. To see the top, get in before midday.
    • Entrance fee for foreigners: 300 baht per adult, 150 to 200 baht per child depending on the source (check on site).
    • Vehicles: about 20 baht for a motorbike, 30 baht for a car.

    Food is not allowed beyond tier 2, and bags may be checked. Plastic bottles are allowed against a deposit of about 20 baht per bottle, refunded when you come back down with the empty bottle.

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    How to get to Erawan Falls

    From Kanchanaburi town

    The simplest and cheapest way is local bus no. 8170 from Kanchanaburi bus station. The ride takes about 1 hour 30 minutes and costs about 60 baht per person each way. The first departure is around 8am, then roughly every one to two hours.

    Watch the return: the last bus leaves Erawan at around 4pm or 4.30pm depending on the source. Check the timetable posted at the station that morning. Other options: rent a scooter in town (about an hour’s ride) or hire a private taxi for the day.

    From Bangkok

    It is about 200 km. First get to Kanchanaburi: a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai), about 2 hours and just over 100 baht, or a train from Thonburi station, slower but very scenic. Then take bus 8170 to Erawan. Leaving Bangkok around 6am makes a day trip feasible, but ideally spend a night in Kanchanaburi. A private return taxi costs about 3,500 baht. Agencies also run day tours with a very early start. For more ideas, see our guide to day trips from Bangkok.

    What to bring

    • Swimwear, plus a T-shirt to swim covered up, which is more respectful.
    • Water shoes or hiking sandals with a good grip. Flip-flops slip on wet limestone.
    • A small towel and a dry bag for your phone and money.
    • Water in a reusable bottle, which saves you the deposit.
    • Sun cream and insect repellent, put on before you arrive so you do not pollute the pools.
    • Small notes for the entrance, the cart and the bus.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Take the first bus at 8am: you will reach the upper tiers before the groups arrive.
    • Walk up to tier 7 first, then swim on the way down. The lower pools are busier.
    • Eat before you climb, near the entrance: food is banned beyond tier 2.
    • In the rainy season the flow is stronger, the water often less clear, and the upper section may be closed. From November to February the weather is more pleasant. See also the best time to visit Bangkok.
    • If you can, avoid weekends and Thai public holidays, which are very busy.
    • Start heading down by 3.30pm at the latest so you do not miss the last bus back.

    Frequently asked questions

    How long do you need to visit Erawan Falls?

    Allow three to four hours on site to climb to tier 7 and swim. Including the journey from Kanchanaburi, plan for half a day to a full day.

    Can you swim at every tier?

    Yes, swimming is allowed in most pools unless rangers say otherwise. Some pools are deep in the middle, so take care if you are not a strong swimmer.

    Are the fish in the pools dangerous?

    No. They are mostly small fish that nibble at the skin on your feet. It is surprising and can pinch a little, but it is harmless.

    Cover of Secret Thailand – Where Nobody Goes – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Secret Thailand – Where Nobody Goes – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Jim Thompson House Bangkok: History, Tickets and Visiting Tips

    Jim Thompson House Bangkok: History, Tickets and Visiting Tips

    The Jim Thompson House is one of Bangkok’s loveliest surprises: six teak houses hidden in a tropical garden, a short walk from the Siam shopping malls. Behind the setting lies the story of an American who revived Thai silk and then vanished without a trace. Here is everything you need to know before you go.

    Who was Jim Thompson?

    Jim Thompson was born in 1906 in Delaware, in the United States. An architect by training, he joined the OSS, the forerunner of the CIA, during the Second World War. He arrived in Bangkok in 1945, just after the war ended, and never left.

    At the time, hand-woven silk was dying out in Thailand. Thompson saw it as a treasure. In 1948 he co-founded the Thai Silk Company and gave work to the weavers of Ban Khrua, just across the canal. The big break came in 1951, when the costume designer of the Broadway musical “The King and I” chose his silk. Thai silk soon became fashionable all over the world.

    A disappearance never solved

    On 26 March 1967, Jim Thompson went for a walk alone in the Cameron Highlands, in Malaysia, where he was spending a few days with friends. He was never seen again. Despite huge searches, no body and no solid lead were ever found. Accident, kidnapping, spy story: there is no shortage of theories, but none has been proven. A Thai court declared him dead in 1974.

    A house made of six houses

    In 1958, Thompson began building his home on the banks of Khlong Saen Saep. He did not build from scratch: he bought six traditional teak houses, most of them from Ayutthaya, had them taken apart and rebuilt on his land. The largest, a weaver’s house from Ban Khrua, became the living room. The work was finished in 1959.

    The result blends Thai architecture with Western comfort. Inside, you will see his collection of Asian art: Buddhist statues, Chinese ceramics, old paintings and porcelain. The lush garden, with its ponds and tropical plants, offers a real moment of calm in the middle of the city.

    The compulsory guided tour

    You cannot visit the main house on your own. Entry is only with a guide, in small groups. Tours run in Thai, English, French, Chinese and Japanese. Ask at the ticket desk when the next tour in your language starts.

    The tour lasts about 30 to 40 minutes. The guide tells Thompson’s life story and explains the rooms one by one. A few rules: you take your shoes off before going in, bags larger than 20 cm go in a locker, and photos are allowed, but no flash, no selfies, no individual portraits and no video. There are several staircases and no lift.

    Opening hours and prices

    The house museum is open every day from 10am to 5pm. According to the official website, the last guided tour starts at 5pm, but it is better to arrive before 4pm so you can enjoy the place without rushing. Prices (checked in 2026):

    • Adults: 250 THB
    • Ages 10 to 21: 150 THB (ID required)
    • Under 10: free, with an adult
    • Visitors with disabilities: 150 THB

    No booking needed: you can buy your ticket on site. Online sales through partner platforms are also available. The ticket also gives access to the Jim Thompson Art Center, in the same compound, which hosts temporary exhibitions (Art Center only: 50 THB).

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    How to get there

    It is very easy. Take the BTS (Silom Line) to National Stadium station, exit 1. Turn left, then walk into Soi Kasemsan 2: the house is about 3 minutes on foot. Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road.

    Another nice option is the boat on Khlong Saen Saep, Hua Chang pier, also about 3 minutes on foot. Taxis, tuk-tuks and Grab work too, but at rush hour the BTS is faster. To understand the network, see my guide to getting around Bangkok by BTS, MRT and boat.

    How much time do you need?

    Allow 1 to 1.5 hours on site: the guided tour, a stroll in the garden, a look at the Art Center and the shop. Add a little waiting time if the next group in your language does not leave straight away. The house is next to MBK and Siam Square, so it fits easily into a day in the area.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Come at opening time, 10am: there are usually fewer groups and the garden is cooler.
    • At the ticket desk, ask straight away when the next tour in your language starts.
    • Wear shoes that are easy to slip off: you remove them before going in.
    • Leave your big bag at the hotel, or plan to use a locker.
    • Bring mosquito repellent: the garden is very green and runs along the canal.
    • The shop sells Jim Thompson silk. The nice pieces are expensive, so take time to compare.
    • There is no lift: if stairs are difficult for you, tell the guide at the start.

    Frequently asked questions

    Is the guided tour available in French or English?

    Yes. Guides speak Thai, English, French, Chinese and Japanese. English tours are the most frequent; ask about times when you arrive.

    Do I need to book in advance?

    No, it is not compulsory. You can buy your ticket on site, and online tickets are also available. In high season, arriving early saves waiting.

    Can I take photos?

    Yes, in the garden and in the house, but no flash, no selfies, no individual portraits and no video inside.

    Cover of Bangkok – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Chiang Rai in One Day: White Temple, Blue Temple and Black House

    Chiang Rai in One Day: White Temple, Blue Temple and Black House

    Chiang Rai in one day is possible, but it is tight. The big city of the north usually comes down to three visits: the White Temple, the Blue Temple and the Black House. Here are the opening hours, 2026 prices, the bus from Chiang Mai and the visiting order that works best.

    Getting to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai

    The two cities are about 180 km apart. The easiest option is the Green Bus coach, which leaves from the Arcade bus station (Terminal 3), a few kilometres north-east of Chiang Mai’s Old City.

    Allow about 3 h 20 by VIP and 3 h 45 by Express, including a rest stop. There are around a dozen departures a day, roughly between 7 am and 6 pm. Tickets cost about 260 to 290 THB for Express and 360 to 400 THB for VIP (prices checked in 2026, often slightly higher online than at the counter).

    The bus stops first at Terminal 2, south of town, then finishes at Terminal 1, right in the centre next to the night market. Get off at Terminal 1: that is where local buses to the temples leave from. In high season, buy your ticket the day before.

    Chiang Rai’s three must-sees

    The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)

    This is the city’s star. A dazzling white temple studded with small mirrors, designed by the artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. It sits about 13 km south of the centre.

    Opening hours: usually 8 am to 5 pm, sometimes a little later at weekends. Price: 200 THB for foreigners since 1 January 2026 (it used to be 100 THB). Entry is free for Thai nationals, children under 120 cm and visitors over 70.

    To get there, take a local bus from Terminal 1 (about 20 to 25 THB, around thirty minutes) or a Grab, in 15 to 20 minutes. Go early: from mid-morning, tour groups arrive in numbers.

    The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten)

    Smaller, calmer and a striking sapphire blue, with a large white Buddha inside. It is about 3 km north of the centre: ten minutes by Grab, or forty-five minutes on foot if you feel brave.

    Opening hours: daily, 7 am to 8 pm. Price: free entry, a small donation is appreciated. The blue looks deepest early in the morning and late in the day, which is also when it is least crowded.

    The Black House (Baan Dam)

    The exact opposite of the White Temple. It is not a temple but a museum: a cluster of dark buildings filled with horns, hides and bones, the world of the artist Thawan Duchanee. Strange, sometimes unsettling, never ordinary.

    Opening hours: daily, 9 am to 5 pm, closed from noon to 1 pm. Price: 80 THB. It is about 13 km north of the centre, 20 to 25 minutes by Grab. By local bus, board a Mae Sai bus at Terminal 1 (about 20 THB) and ask the driver for Baan Dam; you then walk a few hundred metres.

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    One or two days: the best visiting order

    In one day from Chiang Mai

    Catch the first bus, around 7 am. You arrive mid-morning. Head to the White Temple by Grab, then go north to the Black House for 1 pm, when it reopens. Finish with the Blue Temple on your way back to the centre before catching the bus. Ask for the time of the last departure to Chiang Mai as soon as you reach the station.

    It is doable, but you will spend about seven hours sitting on a bus. Many travellers prefer an organised minibus tour from Chiang Mai, which links the three sites with no connections to worry about.

    In two days, more comfortably

    Day 1: morning bus, check in, then the Blue Temple in the late afternoon and a stroll round the night market. Day 2: the White Temple at opening time, back through the centre, the Black House in late morning, lunch, then the afternoon bus.

    Dress code and temple etiquette

    Shoulders and knees covered, for men and women alike. At the White Temple, staff may ask you to cover up before going in. At the Blue Temple, sarongs are often lent at the entrance.

    Take your shoes off before entering the buildings. Speak quietly and do not point your feet at Buddha images or monks. Light trousers or a long skirt with a T-shirt work perfectly, even in the heat. To pick the right time of year, see also the best time to visit Thailand by season.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Get to the White Temple early in the morning: softer light and photos without the crowds.
    • Keep small baht notes for local buses, donations and drinks.
    • At the Black House, avoid the noon to 1 pm slot: the site closes for lunch.
    • With Grab, plan your return: cars are scarcer around the Black House. Ask your driver to wait.
    • Slip a light scarf into your bag: it covers your shoulders in two seconds.
    • Save the Blue Temple for the end of the day: it stays open until 8 pm.
    • Hours and prices sometimes change: check on site, especially on public holidays.

    Frequently asked questions

    Can you visit Chiang Rai in one day from Chiang Mai?

    Yes, with the first bus and a Grab on the spot, or on an organised tour. But two days is far more relaxing.

    How much is the White Temple entry fee in 2026?

    200 THB for foreigners since 1 January 2026. The Blue Temple is free and the Black House costs 80 THB.

    What should I wear to visit the temples?

    Shoulders and knees covered, plus shoes that are easy to slip off. Leave the vest top and short shorts at the hotel.

    Cover of Chiang Mai and the North – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Chiang Mai and the North – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Long-haul flight over 50: arriving in Bangkok in good shape

    Long-haul flight over 50: arriving in Bangkok in good shape

    Twelve hours in a pressurised tube doesn’t worry anyone at 30. A long-haul flight over 50, or when you get short of breath easily, needs a bit of planning. Here is how I organise the trip between Brussels and Bangkok so I arrive tired, but not broken.

    Direct flight or stopover: the real maths

    From Brussels, Thai Airways has flown a daily direct service to Bangkok since December 2024. Allow about 11 hours in the air on the way out. It leaves in the early afternoon and lands early the next morning, Thai time. From Paris, Frankfurt or Amsterdam there are also direct flights of a similar length.

    A stopover (Doha, Dubai, Istanbul and so on) is often cheaper, but the total journey easily climbs to 15 hours or more. A stopover does have one advantage: it breaks the trip in two and lets you walk. My advice: if your budget allows, a direct flight means fewer connections, fewer long corridors and less stress. If you do take a stopover, choose at least two hours to connect so you never have to rush.

    Choosing your seat: it matters more than the menu

    On an eleven-hour flight, your seat makes all the difference. Book it when you buy your ticket, even if it costs a few euros more. Here is what I look for:

    • The aisle: you can get up whenever you like without climbing over anyone. It is my first choice.
    • Near the toilets, but not right next to them: handy for moving around, without constant traffic in front of your knees.
    • The emergency exit row: more legroom, but it is usually refused to passengers who request assistance. Check with the airline.
    • Premium economy: on this route it is often the best value for tired backs and knees.

    Reduced mobility assistance: free, request it 48 hours ahead

    Many travellers don’t know this: assistance for people with reduced mobility is a right in Europe, and it is free. EU Regulation 1107/2006 covers departures from an EU airport. You don’t need to use a wheelchair: walking with difficulty, getting breathless quickly or being fragile after an operation is enough to ask for it.

    The rule: tell the airline or your travel agent at least 48 hours before departure. Do it when you book, it is safer. Someone will meet you at the desk, take you through the checks and all the way to the plane. Also ask for assistance on arrival in Bangkok and for the return flight: the airline arranges it.

    On board: move, drink, breathe

    Sitting still for hours is the main enemy. Get up regularly and walk down the aisle when the seatbelt sign is off. In your seat, circle your ankles and point and flex your feet. It sounds silly, but it gets the circulation going.

    Cabin air is very dry. Drink water often, in small amounts, and ask the crew for a bottle. Go easy on coffee. As for alcohol, I skip it: it dehydrates you and disturbs your sleep.

    For anything health-related, see your doctor a few weeks before you leave: risk of deep vein thrombosis, compression stockings, medication during the flight, possible need for oxygen. Only your doctor can advise you on your own situation. If you need oxygen, airlines often ask for a medical form in advance, so check early. Keep your medicines and prescriptions in your hand luggage.

    #TheSeasonOfBreath #Thailand #TravelStory #TrueStory #MrSchaka

    Jet lag and arriving at Suvarnabhumi

    Bangkok runs on UTC+7. That is 6 hours ahead of Belgium in winter and 5 hours in summer. On the direct flight you land early in the morning. My trick: stay awake until the evening, get out in daylight, take a short nap if needed and eat dinner at local time. Allow a few days to settle in properly.

    Suvarnabhumi is a huge airport, with long walks to immigration. If you have booked assistance, an agent will wait for you at the aircraft door with a wheelchair. Passengers using an airline wheelchair can use the Fast Track lane with one companion. Before you leave, fill in the free TDAC digital arrival card online, within 3 days before arrival. For what comes next, see my guide to getting from the airport to the city centre.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Book your aisle seat when you buy your ticket.
    • Request reduced mobility assistance when booking, at the latest 48 hours before departure, for both flights.
    • Take a small empty bottle to fill up after security.
    • Wear loose clothes, shoes that are easy to slip off and a jumper: the cabin is cool.
    • Set your watch to Bangkok time as soon as you board.
    • Plan nothing important on arrival day. A shower, a walk, a good meal: that’s it.
    • For the rest of your stay, read my article on travelling in Thailand over 50.

    Frequently asked questions

    Is airport assistance really free?

    Yes. In the European Union, assistance for people with reduced mobility is free. You just need to request it from the airline at least 48 hours before departure.

    How long is a flight from Brussels to Bangkok?

    About 11 hours on a direct flight. With a stopover, the journey often takes 15 hours or more, depending on the connection.

    Should I see my doctor before a long-haul flight?

    It is a good idea if you have a breathing, heart or circulation problem, or take regular medication. Your doctor will tell you what suits your case, especially regarding oxygen or preventing blood clots.

    Cover of The Season of Breath

    The book

    Mr Schaka lives with pulmonary fibrosis and has been travelling in Thailand for years. In The Season of Breath he tells the story of that journey, one step at a time, with humour and no self-pity.

  • Floating Market Bangkok: Which One to Choose and When?

    Floating Market Bangkok: Which One to Choose and When?

    Looking for a floating market in Bangkok or nearby, but torn between postcard photos and videos of crowds? There is no single best market, only the one that fits your day and your time slot. Here is my comparison, with travel options, opening hours and boat prices.

    Damnoen Saduak: the most famous, best very early

    This is the postcard market: boats loaded with fruit, noodles and hats in a narrow canal in Ratchaburi province. It is about 100 km south-west of Bangkok, so 1.5 to 2 hours by road depending on traffic. It runs every day, roughly from 7am to noon.

    The secret is timing. Before 9am it is still a real market. Around 10am the tour minibuses arrive and the canal turns into a boat traffic jam. Minivans leave regularly from the Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) from 6am, for about 80 THB (prices checked in 2026, confirm on the spot).

    For a boat, expect roughly 300 to 600 THB for a rowing boat for one hour, and more for a motorboat. It is usually a price per boat, not per person. Ask before you step in.

    Amphawa: a weekend atmosphere in the late afternoon

    Amphawa, in Samut Songkhram province, about 1.5 hours from Bangkok, is my favourite for atmosphere. It only opens from Friday to Sunday, roughly from 3pm to 9pm or 10pm. Most visitors are Thai weekenders: wooden stilt houses, small seafood restaurants, old-style desserts.

    At dusk, boats head out to see the fireflies. Prices stay modest, a few dozen baht per person on a shared boat or a few hundred for a private boat (confirm on the spot). Fireflies are easiest to see during the rainy season, roughly May to October.

    Khlong Lat Mayom and Taling Chan: floating markets inside Bangkok

    Don’t fancy spending your morning on the road? These two markets are on the Thonburi side, in Bangkok’s Taling Chan district. They open on Saturdays, Sundays and often public holidays, roughly from 8 or 9am until mid-afternoon.

    Taling Chan is small and very local: you eat grilled fish and simple dishes sitting on pontoons right by the water. Khlong Lat Mayom is bigger and greener, with plenty of food stalls and boat rides through the canals. From Taling Chan, boat tours of about three hours link several markets for around 100 baht per person (price to be checked). The easiest way there is a taxi or a Grab from the centre.

    Maeklong Railway Market: check the train times

    It is not a floating market, but it is often combined with Damnoen Saduak or Amphawa. Vendors set up their stalls on the tracks, then fold back awnings and baskets a few minutes before the train passes. It lasts two minutes, but it is spectacular.

    Indicative times, to be checked with the State Railway of Thailand or on the spot, as they sometimes change:

    • Arrivals at Maeklong: around 8.30am, 11.10am, 2.30pm and 5.40pm.
    • Departures from Maeklong: around 6.20am, 9am, 11.30am and 3.30pm.

    Getting there by train from Bangkok is an adventure: a train from Wongwian Yai to Mahachai, a small ferry across the river, then a second train from Ban Laem. Allow a good half-day. Faster: a minivan to Maeklong, then a minivan back.

    #Thailand #Bangkok #ThailandTravel #TravelTips #Asia #MrSchaka

    Which one should you choose?

    • You are in Bangkok on a weekday: Damnoen Saduak, leaving at dawn, possibly combined with the Maeklong train.
    • You have a Saturday or Sunday: Khlong Lat Mayom or Taling Chan in the morning, with no time lost on the road.
    • You want an authentic evening: Amphawa from Friday to Sunday, with the 2.30pm or 5.40pm Maeklong train just before.
    • You are travelling with children: Khlong Lat Mayom, close, calm and full of snacks.

    For more ideas, see my article on day trips from Bangkok.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Always ask whether the boat price is per boat or per person, and for how long.
    • At Damnoen Saduak, beware of touts who drop you far from the market and quote tours costing thousands of baht: you can also reach the market on foot.
    • Politely decline “sugar palm farm” or “workshop” stops if you don’t want a souvenir shop.
    • Carry small notes: 20, 50 and 100 THB.
    • At Maeklong, stay behind the line when the train passes and keep your feet and phone well back.
    • Hat, water and sunscreen: you are in full sun on the water.
    • If you love markets, keep an evening for Chatuchak and the night markets.

    Frequently asked questions

    Which is the most authentic floating market near Bangkok?

    Amphawa and Khlong Lat Mayom, mostly visited by Thai families at weekends. Damnoen Saduak is more touristy, but still lovely very early in the morning.

    Can you visit a floating market on a weekday?

    Yes, Damnoen Saduak opens every day. Amphawa, Khlong Lat Mayom and Taling Chan are mainly weekend markets.

    Do you need to book an organised tour?

    It is not essential. Public transport works fine, but a private driver is handy for combining Damnoen Saduak and Maeklong in one day.

    Cover of Bangkok – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Bang Krachao by bike: a day in Bangkok’s green lung

    Bang Krachao by bike: a day in Bangkok’s green lung

    Ten minutes by boat from the towers of Sathorn, a loop of the Chao Phraya hides a jungle of mango trees, nipa palms and little canals. Exploring Bang Krachao by bike is the easiest and cheapest nature escape from Bangkok. Here is how to get there, where to hire a bike and what to see, with prices checked in 2026.

    Getting to Bang Krachao by boat

    Bang Krachao, nicknamed Bangkok’s “green lung”, is not an island but a peninsula formed by a big bend in the river. It belongs to Samut Prakan province, Phra Pradaeng district. No bridge links it directly to the centre: you cross by boat, and that is what keeps it green.

    The handiest departure point is the small pier at Wat Khlong Toei Nok, on the Bangkok side. From MRT Khlong Toei station, allow a few minutes by taxi or motorbike taxi: the pier is tucked away at the end of a lane, behind the temple. The boat crosses in about five minutes to Kamnan Khao pier opposite. A ticket costs around ten baht per person, a little more if you bring your own bike. To combine the metro and boats without getting lost, read my guide to getting around Bangkok by BTS, MRT and boat.

    The second option is on the Bang Na side: the pier at Wat Bang Na Nok, a short taxi ride from BTS Bang Na. The crossing takes you towards Bang Nam Phueng, close to the floating market. Handy at weekends.

    Hiring a bike and choosing your route

    No need to book. As soon as you step off the boat, several rental shops are waiting with rows of city bikes, some with child seats. Expect about 100 THB for the day, or around fifty baht an hour; prices vary from shop to shop. Shops open around 7.30am and close in the late afternoon. You will often be asked for ID or a deposit.

    The network is made of small roads and, above all, raised concrete walkways laid over marshes and gardens. They are narrow, with no railings in places, and shared with locals on scooters. Ride slowly, ring your bell on bends and remember that a fall into the mud is nothing exotic.

    For a first visit, a loop of around fifteen kilometres is plenty: the pier, Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan park, one or two temples, then the market if it is the weekend. Rental shops often hand out a paper map, and an offline maps app will save you from dead ends.

    Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan park and the floating market

    Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan park is the green heart of the peninsula. Laid out in the early 2000s on former orchards, it mixes ponds, wooden walkways, plants suited to brackish water and an observation tower with views over the canopy and, in the distance, the skyscrapers. Cycle paths run through the park and entry is free. It opens early in the morning and closes in the early evening; exact hours vary between sources, so check on the spot.

    On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bang Nam Phueng floating market livens up the south of the peninsula, roughly from 8am to 2pm. Do not expect a parade of boats as at Damnoen Saduak: here, most of the action happens on the banks and jetties. It is a village market, popular with Thai families. You will find coconut desserts, fruit, noodle dishes, crafts and plants. On weekdays there is nothing, so plan your trip accordingly.

    #Thailand #Bangkok #ThailandTravel #TravelTips #Asia #MrSchaka

    Best time to go and budget

    The cool season, from November to February, is the most pleasant for cycling. In April and May the heat is crushing: set off at 7am and be back before noon. During the rainy season, roughly June to October, showers often fall in the afternoon and the walkways get slippery. In mid-October we are at the end of the wet season: a poncho in your bag is enough.

    On a Saturday or Sunday morning you get the market, but the walkways are busier. On weekdays it is completely calm, ideal for birds and photos. Budget-wise, the day stays very gentle: about twenty baht for the return boat, around 100 THB for the bike, and 100 to 200 THB for food and fresh juices. Add the taxi to the pier. If you are looking for more ideas in the same spirit, see my selection of day trips from Bangkok.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Go early: at the pier around 7.30am, you have the cool air and the walkways to yourself.
    • Bring water, sun cream, a hat and small change: not all rental shops and vendors take cards.
    • Check the brakes and saddle before you leave, and ask for a lock.
    • On the walkways, give way to scooters and never ride two abreast.
    • Head back before dark: boats become scarce after sunset.
    • Respect the residents: you are riding through their gardens, not a theme park.

    Frequently asked questions

    Do you need to be fit to explore Bang Krachao by bike?

    No. It is completely flat. The challenge comes from the heat and the narrow walkways, not the effort. Children used to cycling cope very well.

    Can you visit without hiring a bike?

    Yes, but distances are long on foot. Motorbike taxis run around the peninsula, and some agencies offer guided bike tours with transfers.

    Is the floating market open every day?

    No, only on Saturdays and Sundays, usually from 8am to early afternoon. Some public holidays too, worth checking on the spot.

    Cover of Bangkok – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.

  • Koh Larn from Pattaya: Ferry Times, Beaches and Practical Tips

    Koh Larn from Pattaya: Ferry Times, Beaches and Practical Tips

    Koh Larn from Pattaya is the easiest island escape on the east coast: a 40-baht ferry, about 45 minutes at sea, and you land on an island with far clearer water than Beach Road. Here are the timetables, the piers, the beaches and my tips for mid-October, as the rainy season draws to a close.

    The ferry from Bali Hai Pier

    Everything starts at Bali Hai Pier, the big jetty at the end of Walking Street, south of Beach Road. The public ferry has cost 40 baht per journey since 10 April 2026; it had stayed at 30 baht for around sixteen years. Pay at the ticket booth on the pier, not to touts on the street. The crossing takes 40 to 45 minutes. There are two destinations: Na Ban, the main village and harbour, and Tawaen, the busiest beach.

    Times to and from Na Ban

    • Pattaya → Na Ban: 7.00, 10.00, 12.00, 14.00, 15.30, 17.00, 18.30.
    • Na Ban → Pattaya: 6.30, 7.30, 9.30, 12.00, 14.00, 15.30, 17.00, 18.00.

    Times to and from Tawaen

    • Pattaya → Tawaen: 8.00, 9.00, 11.00, 13.00.
    • Tawaen → Pattaya: 13.00, 14.00, 15.00, 16.00, 17.00.

    These are the times recorded in 2026. They can change, so take a photo of the board on the pier. In a hurry? Shared speedboats cross in 15 to 20 minutes for about 150 to 300 baht per person. A private boat starts at roughly 1,500 to 3,000 baht, depending on your bargaining.

    Na Ban or Tawaen: which pier?

    Na Ban is the heart of the island, with the songthaew and motorbike taxi rank. It is the best starting point if you want to see several beaches. The ferry runs back and forth all day, with the last departure to Pattaya at around 18.00.

    The Tawaen ferry drops you right on the beach. Handy with children, or for a lazy sunbed day. But departures are mostly in the morning and returns stop at around 17.00. My advice: go to Na Ban, then come back from whichever pier suits you, after checking the time of the last boat.

    The beaches of Koh Larn

    • Tawaen: the longest (about 700 metres) and liveliest, with restaurants, showers and water sports. Great for families, but noisy with jet skis.
    • Samae: on the west side, about ten minutes from Na Ban. Fine sand, clear water, more space. Lovely light late in the day, but there can be waves in the afternoon.
    • Tien: a smaller, calmer bay, often called the prettiest on the island, with its wooden walkway.
    • Nual, known as Monkey Beach: in the south, quiet, good for swimming and snorkelling. Monkeys live on the hillside: do not feed them and keep your bags closed.

    Expect about 100 to 200 baht for a sunbed for the day, depending on the beach.

    Getting around the island

    In Na Ban, songthaews, the pick-up trucks with benches, wait about a hundred metres from the pier and leave when full. Expect around 30 to 60 baht per person depending on the beach. Motorbike taxis post their fares on a board near the pier: about 50 baht to Samae, around 400 baht for an island tour.

    You can also hire a scooter for about 250 to 400 baht a day. Be careful: the roads are narrow, steep and full of bends. Only do it if you are used to riding, with a helmet and the right licence.

    #Thailand #Bangkok #ThailandTravel #TravelTips #Asia #MrSchaka

    The viewpoint and the big Buddha

    On the road to Samae, a viewpoint looks over the coast: stop for a few minutes. Higher up, the big Buddha hill gives a panorama over Tawaen and, on a clear day, as far as Pattaya. Songthaews and motorbike taxis go up on request. For the religious site, cover your shoulders and knees.

    Mid-October: end of the rains, start of high season

    Right now we are coming out of the rainy season, which runs roughly from May to October. The sea can still be rough, and a heavy downpour clouds the water for a day or two. In bad weather, speedboats, and even the ferry, may be suspended. Check the forecast the day before and leave some margin for the trip back.

    From November, high season gets going: calmer sea, clearer water, blue skies until around February. The downside: more people, especially at weekends and on Thai public holidays. Go on a weekday if you can, and aim for the first boat to arrive before the mid-morning tour groups.

    Mr Schaka’s practical tips

    • Bring cash in small notes: the cash machines in Na Ban are sometimes empty or have long queues.
    • Buy your ticket at the Bali Hai Pier booth, never from a tout.
    • Arrive at least 30 minutes before the return ferry: it may leave early if it is full.
    • Sun cream, a hat, water and water shoes for rocky entries.
    • Before hiring a jet ski, film the machine in front of the operator to avoid unfair damage claims.
    • To round off your stay, read my guide to things to do in Pattaya.

    Frequently asked questions

    How much is the ferry to Koh Larn from Pattaya?

    40 baht per person per journey since April 2026, paid at the Bali Hai Pier booth. A shared speedboat costs about 150 to 300 baht.

    What time is the last ferry from Koh Larn?

    Around 18.00 from Na Ban and around 17.00 from Tawaen, according to the times recorded in 2026. Check on the spot on the day.

    Which is the best beach on Koh Larn?

    For clear water and space, Samae. For peace and quiet, Tien or Nual. Tawaen is the most convenient, but also the most crowded.

    Cover of Pattaya – The Practical Guide

    To go further

    Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Pattaya – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.