Doing Lopburi from Bangkok in a day is one of my favourite outings when I want to leave the concrete behind without taking a plane. Three hours on a slow train, Khmer towers more than eight centuries old, a 17th-century royal palace and macaques that look at you as if you were their next meal. Here is how I go about it, what to see and how to behave around the monkeys.
Lopburi, a city older than Bangkok
Lopburi is not just a “monkey town”. Under the name Lavo, it was an important centre long before Ayutthaya was founded, and later a stronghold of the Khmer empire. The monuments you see today tell that story in successive layers: laterite towers in Khmer style, temples reworked in the Ayutthaya period, then the palace built in the 1660s by King Narai, who made Lopburi his second capital.
It is this mix that I love. In one morning you move from the age of Jayavarman VII to the time of the French embassies sent to the court of Siam. And everything can be done on foot, as the old town is compact.
How to get to Lopburi by train
Be careful: things changed at the end of 2025, and many online guides are out of date.
The slow train from Hua Lamphong: my choice
Since 5 December 2025, only local and commuter trains (ordinary and commuter) still stop at the old Lopburi station, right in the historic centre. That is the one you want: as you walk out, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat is directly opposite and Phra Prang Sam Yot is a few minutes’ walk away. These trains leave from Bangkok’s old station, Hua Lamphong, which is served by the MRT (see my article on getting around Bangkok). Allow about three hours for the journey, in third class on bench seats with the windows open. The ticket costs only a few dozen baht; check the timetable at the counter or on the SRT website the day before, as it changes.
Fast trains: watch out for Lopburi 2
Rapid, express and special express trains leave from the new Krung Thep Aphiwat station. Since December 2025 they no longer stop in town but at Lopburi 2, an elevated station at Tha Wung, about ten kilometres from the centre. A free shuttle was introduced when it opened; ask on the spot whether it is still running, otherwise you will need a taxi or a songthaew. The time saving is real (from 1 hour 30 to just over 2 hours of travel), but for a day trip, the slow train that drops you in front of the ruins is still simpler.
The train passes through Ayutthaya. If you have two days, you can easily combine the two cities: I have written an article on Ayutthaya from Bangkok.
Phra Prang Sam Yot, the symbol of Lopburi
Phra Prang Sam Yot is three linked towers, built of laterite in the Bayon style between the late 12th and early 13th century, when Lavo was under the Khmer empire. Each tower was dedicated to a deity, and the sanctuary seems to have passed from Hindu worship to Buddhist use. Inside, you will now find Buddha statues from later periods.
It is also the great playground of the long-tailed macaques. Entry is charged for foreigners, generally between 50 and 100 baht depending on the source, and a combined ticket for several sites in town exists; prices change, so check at the counter. Staff sometimes lend you a stick to keep the monkeys at a distance. A few steps away, the San Phra Kan shrine is home to its own troop too.
The other temples and King Narai’s palace
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
Opposite the station, this large ruined complex has a Khmer-style prang surrounded by chedis and remains reworked in the Ayutthaya period. It is often calmer: the ideal place to start early in the morning, when the light is soft.
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Phra Narai Ratchaniwet
King Narai’s palace, built in the 1660s, is a vast enclosure with white walls, ruined audience halls, old elephant stables and reservoirs. This is where the king received the French embassy of the Chevalier de Chaumont in 1685. The national museum housed in the palace displays objects from that period and archaeological finds from the region. It is normally closed on Mondays and Tuesdays; entry costs around 150 to 200 baht for foreigners. Allow an hour and a half.
Ban Wichayen
The ruins of this residence, linked to European visitors in King Narai’s time, can be seen quickly. They mix Siamese architecture with European influences, which is quite rare in Thailand.
Lopburi’s monkeys today
For years, thousands of macaques overran the centre, to the point of driving away residents and shopkeepers. From 2024, the authorities and the national parks department launched a large campaign: more than one and a half thousand monkeys were captured, placed in enclosures and sterilised. The town centre is therefore much calmer than before, but there are still monkeys around Phra Prang Sam Yot and San Phra Kan. They are wild animals, fast and sometimes aggressive.
Every year, on the last Sunday of November, the town holds the famous monkey buffet: mountains of fruit and vegetables are laid out around the temples. It is spectacular and very busy. In 2026 it should fall on 29 November; confirm the date before you go.
My practical tips
- Nothing dangling, nothing shiny: put sunglasses, cap, earrings and phone away in a closed bag. Macaques grab anything that sticks out.
- No visible food, and no plastic bags: to a monkey, a rustling bag means food.
- Do not feed the monkeys and do not stare them in the eye, as it can be taken as a threat. Showing your teeth when you smile too.
- If a monkey jumps on you, stay calm, do not pull, do not hit. Move away slowly.
- If you are bitten or scratched, wash the wound for a long time with soap and water and go to hospital the same day: rabies exists in Thailand. Ask your doctor before the trip whether vaccination is useful for you.
- Arrive early: the heat builds quickly and the ruins offer little shade. November to February is the most pleasant period (see when to go to Thailand).
- Wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees for the temples and the palace.
- Keep small notes for entry fees, drinks and the songthaew.
My typical day in Lopburi
I take a morning train from Hua Lamphong, arrive around midday and start with Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, opposite the station. Then I head to Phra Prang Sam Yot and San Phra Kan, bag firmly closed. I have lunch in town, then finish with King Narai’s palace if it is neither Monday nor Tuesday. I return in the late afternoon on a slow train or, to go faster, via Lopburi 2. If you want to see the monuments without rushing, spending a night there is a good idea.
Frequently asked questions
Can you do Lopburi as a day trip from Bangkok?
Yes, it is doable if you leave early. With about three hours of slow train each way, you will have five to six hours on site, enough for the main sights.
Which station should I use in Lopburi?
The old Lopburi station in the centre, served by slow trains from Hua Lamphong. Fast trains now stop at Lopburi 2, far from the temples.
Are the monkeys dangerous?
There are fewer of them since 2024, but they are still wild. If you follow the simple rules (nothing visible, no food, stay calm), the visit goes well.
Should I go to the monkey buffet?
If you like the atmosphere and the crowds, yes. To visit the temples in peace, choose another day instead.
To go further
Mr Schaka’s guidebook, Bangkok – The Practical Guide, covers the essentials: transport, neighbourhoods, addresses, food, etiquette and safety, updated for 2026–2027.